THE CANADIAN ROCKIES: A HISTORY PHOTOGRAPHS 111 Above: Terrace po at the Chateau, ca. 1925. TOday the terrace iS used as an outdoor restaurant during summer.

THE CANADIAN ROCKIES: A HISTORY PHOTOGRAPHS 51 The dapper figure of the Swiss Guide ー pipe 1n mouth, alpenstock in hand, rope coiled over the shoul- der, and fedora on top ー a strong image in the history of the Rockies. The first S 、 viss G uide came tO Canada in 1897. Others followed 。 years later, and quickly proved their value to both mountameers and the CPR. Opposite: Swiss Guides at the 1907 Alpine Club of Canada camp in Paradise Valley. Above: Swiss Guides returning from the first ascent of Mt. COllie, on the Wapta lcefield in what is now Yoho National Park, August 19 , 1901. The dotted line marks their route to the summit. Members of the Feuz family (pronounced fOitS) 、 amongst the most promi- nent and longest serving Of the guides. Edward Feuz Jr. led clients on thousands of ascents, including 78 firsts" during a forty-one year career in Canada. For $ 5.00 a day, novlce or expert alike could hire a Swiss Guide to lead them onto the heights. Much of the Swiss Guides' work involved repetltious ascents Of the regular routes on MtS. S tep hen , Victo ria, Lefroy, Temple and Sir Donald. But often they participated in more adventurous Journeys ofexploration further afield, during which dozens of new ascents were made. Typical Of these were the outings of mountameers ames Outram, J. N. Collie, J. W. A. Hickson and James Monroe Thorington ・ At first, the Guides returned tO their families in Switzerland each winter. Eventually 1 れ OS [ remained in Canada year-round, taking employment as caretakers Of the railway hotels during the off-season. The cpr built a village for the Swiss Guides near Golden, bc, so their families might alSO move tO Canada. Ed Feuz Jr. , last of the original Swiss G uides died at Golden in 1981, at age 96 ・

108 THE CANADIAN ROCKIES: A HISTORY 爪 PHOTOGRAPHS な 一を気を . を一「人一ト′ Top: Campers at an unidentified Opposite: Brewster sightseeing roadside campground during bus at Crowfoot Glacier the 1920 viewpoint, late 1950 ' s. Bottom: Moraine Lake and buildings 0f the ・ bungalow camp' , ca. 1928.

84 THE CANADIAN ROCKIES: A HISTORY 爪 PHOTOGRAPHS ↓一ッ ッく . Above: Yoh0 park warden 」 ack Giddie with horse on Mt. Burgess, ca. 1930. Opposite: Horses on Victoria Glacier, 1922. Horses were used tO pack supplies partway along the ice during construction Of Abbot Pass Hut.

72 THE CANADIAN ROCKIES: A HISTORY PHOTOGRAPHS ROOMS 「 7 attack by German U-boats, hiS partlcipatlon on many guides and 0 utfitters the Allies experimented with capitalized on ne 、 opportu- mountarneerlng ascents, maklng an ai rcraft Harmon's photography nltles ー operating IOdges, 仔 01 れ a mrxture Of ice and offered a unique and boat tours, and pioneerlng remarkably popular perspec- downhill skiing in the wood chips. Despite Rockies. enthusiastic backing by tlve on the Rockies. Many of the photographs repro- Before the days of none Other than Sir 、仮 n ー duced in this book come refrigeration, the ice harvest ston Churchill, the bizarre idea was fraught with 伝 0n1 the collection Of more 、 an important annual problems, and was aban- than 6500 Byron Harmon enterpnse in the ROCkies. lmages, Ⅵ , ・ preserved in Large ChunkS Of ice 、 cut doned the following winter ・ from the frozen surface of the Whyte Museum at Lake Louise and the Bow Ban 圧 The advent of the River, and stored in ice houses for use ln stores and automobile during the hotels the following sum- second decade of the 19th century, made business ln mer. This difficult job provided employment for the Rockies mercurial. Some SWiSS Guides and outfitters traditional enterpnses, such during the off-season. as trail guiding, declined' as North Americans expressed Pro bably the stranges [ endeavour in the history Of their ne 、 found fascination the Rockies took place in With the horseless carriage. Ultimately of course, the the winter of 194 引 at Patricia Lake near Jasper ・ automobile created more Desperate for a vessel which industry ln tourrsm than it would be invincible to undermined, and some Above: Ban 幵 Avenue during the Winter Carnival, 1929. opposite top: The ice palace at the first Winter Carnival, 1917. Prisoner Of war labour was used tO construct the palace. 〇 pposite わ 0 om : Ph0tographer Byron Harmon on CastIeguard Mountain, 1924.

60 THE CANADIAN ROCKIES: A HISTORY 爪 PHOTOGRAPHS Above: Packtrain on The following year, during During a 19 ち expedition to Saskatchewan Glacier, Columbia Columbia lcefield, trail the National Geographic lcefield Expedition, 1924. guide J immy S impso n did expedition tO Columbia Opposite top. ・ The Glacier something he'd been lcefield, horses were again Belle" on Glacier Lake, 1902. wanting to try for years ー he taken ontO Saskatche 、 」 . N. Collie's mountaineering drove his pack horses along Glacier. Photographer party used the raft t0 cross the lake on their way t0 the Lyell the icy surface of S askatche- Byron Harmon got great lcefield 、 Glacier. Simpson S mileage out of the unlikely lmage Of a packtraln on 1Ce. motlvatl()n 、 a shortcut 〇 pposite bottom: lce cave at the terminus of Athabasca on the journey bet 、 Castleguard Meadows soon Glacier, 1914. Castleguard Meadows, on became a regular stoppmg the southern edge of place on trail rides between Columbia lcefield, and Jasper and Lake Louise, Sunwapta Pass. The horses organized by Jack Brewster. apparently took t0 the ice meadO 、、 rou- with little fuss, which is tinely reached by crossing the ice, and the excurslon surpriS1ng, the temperament Of the average became known as "The pack animal. Little did Glacier Trail. Simpson realize, he had started a trend.

THE CANADIAN ROCKIES: A HISTORY PHOTOGRAPHS 67 ascents" Kain made during 気 h an elevation of 3954m / bold and ill-equipped 25 seasons 0f guiding in 12972 伝 Mt. Robson is the attempts on the imposrng highest mountarn in the 、 vest face Of the mountaln. Canada. On the last of these Kinney Many climbing routes Canadian Rockies, standing claimed success, although it have since been established head and shoulders above on Robson, and this difficult later became apparent they the rest. B efO re the construc- mountain has lOSt none Of had not quite reached the tion of the Grand Trunk Pacific Railway through the itS appeal tO n10 untarneers. summlt. Conquest Of the moun- area ln 1911, the mountarn tain then became a prlncip al and itS envlrons 、 kno 、 aim of the Alpine Club of only tO trappers, prospectors and a few intrepid explorers Canada. During the 1911 and guides. The first moun- Smithsonian/ACC expedition to Mt. Robson, Club talneermg attemptS on President A. O. Wheeler Robson [ 00k place in 1908. scouted the ViC1n1ty as a The following year, Rever- location for an ACC camp. end George Kinney and trail WheeIer wanted the highest guide Donald 。 Curly" Phillips made a series of peak in the Rockies [ 0 be climbed by Canadians ・ From the 1913 camp at Robson Pass, Austrian born mountaln guide Conrad Kain, led t 、 M() ACC members to the summit, fulfilling Wheeler s desire. Robson was one of 6 "first Opposite: The east face 0f Mt. Robson, 1913. Above: Climbers with movie camera on Mt. RespIendent, 1918. Mt. Robson is in the background.

THE CANADIAN ROCKIES: A HISTORY 爪 PHOTOGRAPHS 57 、 " ild ' ' BilI Peyto (pro- ofJ. N. CoIIie in 1897 and nounced PEE-toe) typified 1898 , and Whymper and the eccentric characters Outram ln 1901. He 、 attracted tO the profession Of known as a man Of con- trail guide. 、 Ot a native Of trasts: his qtllet manners were offset by his wild garb the wild west, Peyto hailed and off-beat sense Of from an unlikely place ー humour. 、 After a stint in the Kent, England. Wanderlust Boer War, Peyto set up his brought him to Canada at age eighteen, and eventually own guiding b usiness. Later tO the mountams, 、 vhere hiS he served in the First World War, joining the park surpr1S1ng abilities as 、 servrce in Banff 、 voodsman, hunter and prospector flourished. Peyt0 upon hiS return. The overlook at Bow cultivated a self-taught Summ1t was a favourlte knowledge 。 f geology, and haunt of Peyto's, during spent several years prospect- expeditio ns which camped ing near Banff before joimng in the vicinity of Bow Lake. Tom Wilson's company ln Thus the 、 vaters in the 18 男 or 1894. spectacular view 伝 0n1 the Of Peyto, WaIterWiIcox 100k0ut became known as commented: CHiS forté、 doing things, nottalkrng Peyto Lake. aboutthem. ”引 d Bill was guide on a number Of lmportant mountameerrng expeditions, including those Opposite: "Wild" Bill Peyto, trail guide and outfifter, 1895. Above: Bill Peyto(Ieft), Hugh StutfieId (foreground) and 」 . N. COIIie at camp in the Mistaya Valley, during the 1898 expedition which discovered Columbia lcefield.

THE CANADIAN ROCKIES: A HISTORY IN PHOTOGRAPHS Arthur Oliver (). O. ) executlve meetlng Of the mountam in the Rockies. Wheeler was an lrish-born, Canadian Pacific Railway at From 1913 ー 25 , Wheeler took land surveyor, trained in the F ield. The railway realized part in the British Colum- use of photography for map the tourism benefits 、 vhich bia/Alberta, I nterp rovincial making. As with the other 、 MO uld accrue 丘 OI Ⅱ the Boundary Survey, during topographic surveyors who assocratlon, and 、 MhOle- which he named many preceded him in the Rockies heartedly s uppo rted the features in the Rockies. and Selkirks, his work idea. For the next t 、 MO typically involved occupying decades, the CPR provided Above left: A. 0. Wheeler, assrstance ln stagmg annual surveyor, mountaineer and survey StatlOns on mountarn founder Of the Alpine Club Of mountarneermg camps, and tOPS. AS a consequence, Canada, 1944 or 1945. WheeIer developed the skills the attending mountameers Of a mountameer. ln 1901, published widely read ハわ ove right: A. 0. Wheeler operating a survey camera he began tO advocate the accounts Of their exploits, during the lnterprovincial 応 rmatlon O f a Canadian thus attracti ng 1 れ ore VIS1tors Boundary Survey, which mountarneermg club, tO to the Rockies. delineated the Alberta/B. C border between 1913 and promote climbing, study, ln 1911, Wheeler led an 1925. and appreciation 0f the expedition tO the vicinity 0 f mountams Of 、 vestern Mt. Robson. LargeIy as a Opposite top: Members 0f the Alpine Club Of Canada near result Of the expedition Canada. Yoho Glacier, 1914. report, Mt. Robson Provin- ln February 1906 , Wheeler presented the idea cial Park was established 。 Opposite わ 0 om : Members Of the Alpine Club of Canada at for founding the Alpine years later, protecting the the Giant Steps, Paradise VaIIey, CIub of Canada to an area aro und the highest 1907.

THE CANADIAN ROCKIES: A HISTORY 爪 PHOTOGRAPHS 21 てゾ t10ns tO correct the matter. CPR expenenced en- tounsm industry in moun- The 250 room hotel, couragrng success 、 itS tamous 、 vestern Canada. TO Van Horne is attributed the complete 、 vith sulphur water railside stops at Glacier and piped from the Upper H0t Field during the summer of statement: Since 、 can t export the scenery, we Ⅱ Springs, opened June 1, 1886. Visitors were rn awe Of the mountaln scenery, have tO lmport the tour1StS. 1888. lt was the largest hotel in the world at the With that aim ln mind, in and pleased to have com- tlme. R00n1 rates started at fortable servlces available in the 信Ⅱ of 1886 the CPR began constructlon Of the $3.50 a day. such remote settings. The The Banff Springs Hotel railway desperately needed pride Of its mountain hOtel turned the tiny community cash flow to help offsetthe fleet, the Banff Springs, at a Of Banff intO a destinatlon S1te rep ortedly recom- debt incurred in itS con- resort. More than 5000 mended by outfitter Tom structlon. CPR Vice-Presi- VIS1tors arrived in the year 、宿 , near the confluence dent and General Manager, after it opened. The hotel's ofthe Spray and Bow William Cornelius Van nightly capacity was Horne, took note of all this Rivers. The building would creased tO 500 in 1903. eventually COSt a quarter 0 「 a and hit upon an idea which During 1904 , almost IO , 000 would both help make the million dollars. guests registered, and many ln the summer of 1887 , railway into a payrng Others 、 vere turned a 、 tO proposltlon, and create a Horne visited the sleep in rail 、 cars at the constructlon S1te and 、 traln StatiO n. The seaso n 、 shocked tO see someone had lengthened as needed [ 0 oriented the plans back- Opposite: The Banff Springs accommodate business. Van wards! The kitchen over- Hotel and the Bow River, ca. Horne S assessment had 1920. 1 。。 ked the rivers, and the literally been right on the guest rooms faced the forest. Top. TaIIy-ho leaving the Banff He hastily sketched addi- Springs HOtel, ca. 1912. 1 oney.