THE CANADIAN ROCKIES: A HISTORY PHOTOGRAPHS 55 At var10 us tl mes in the early and mid-1890's, the atten- t10n Of mountameers had been riveted on the yet unclimbed Mt. Lefroy near Lake Louise, and also on Mts. Hooker and Brown further north. South of B anff, the most desi red peak 、 M [. Assiniboine, popularly called "the Matterhorn of the Rockies' Assiniboine is the sixth highest peak in the range. lt is a lan dmark 応 r hundreds Of kilometres in the mountarneer S Vie 、 frOI . Other summits. Various expeditions organized by に n , Wilcox and others in the 1890 ' s , had increased the knowledge of the mountam and its approaches, but had failed to ascend the peak. None t00 secretly it 、 vas Columbia on Columbia lcefield ー the second highest ln 1901, Edward hoped he would achieve a Whymper, conqueror ofthe publicity coup by climbing mountaln in the Rockies ー European Matterhorn and the Canadian Matterhorn as and Mt. Bryce, one of the most difficult peaks in the may other peaks in the Alps, well. convinced the CPR tO Being past his mountarn- range. Whymper made viS1tS tO sponsor him and a troupe Of eermg prime, Whymper had the ROCkies in subsequent SWiSS Guides in a summer Of no real interest in this summers. ln 1905 at GIacier exploration in the ROCkies. objective. Other than a Whymper was to lend his series Of ne 、 relatively easy House, he met Sir James ascents near Vermilion Pass Hector, then 69 years 01d. stature [ 0 published ac- Hector had been geologist and in Yoho, he accom- counts of the Rock1es by and doctor to the Palliser authoring a few himself. He plished little of note. ln Expedition of 1857-60. 、 alSO tO make suggestlons September 1901, Assinib0ine During this expedition was climbed by Whymper s tO the CPR concerning the Hector travelled extensively companion Of the summer, establishment Of facilities in the Rockies, and amongst and the building of trails. the Reverend James Other accomplishments Outram. (pronounced 00T - made the first crossrng Of rum). The ascent ofAssin- Kicking Horse Pass. lt is iboine was one Of Outram S fortunate this meeting Of many n10 untalneermg tWO glants Of explO ration achievements in the sum- was recorded on 創 m. mers of 1900-1902. He also made first ascents Of 、 4 [ 1 し一 Opposite: Mt. Assiniboine, the "Matterhorn of the Rockies" 1899. Above: 」 ames Hector (seated), with Edward Whymper, at Glacier House, 1903.

THE CANADIAN ROCKIES: A HISTORY PHOTOGRAPHS 63 several days on a raft exploring the largest body of water in the Rockies. Mary published a popular account of these journeys ln 1911. 0 を / 〃〃な was well received and made her intO a celebrity. At 50 years of age, Mary then gave up traillife tO reside at Banff, 、 vhere She lived until her death in 1 男 9. Above: Chief Sampson Beaver and family, 1907. Sampson provided Mary Schäffer with a crude map Of the route tO Maligne Lake. Right: Mary Schäffer, whO explored Maligne Lake in 1908.

100 THE CANADIAN ROCKIES: A HISTORY PHOTOGRAPHS に第■■ i 廳第 ! ■ー 5 印 P The federal government also in 1958. Altho ugh die-hard an enthusiastic supporter Of perceived the automobile as motorists had for decades a developed road linkmg central tO the future Of been making the bone- Lake Louise and Jasper ー a tounsm in the Rockies , and Jarring trip along railway route he called "The opened numerous roadside grades either side ofYellow- Wonder Trail. ” Coleman campgro unds. The percep- head Pass, the Yellowhead 、 Mould live tO see this idea tIOn proved accurate. The Highway was finally become reality. He traveled automobile's dominance has completed through Jasper south 伝 om Jasper on the lasted 1 ore than 70 years. National Park in 1968. partially completed road in ln 1926 , "The Kicking The first complete 1 男 6. Horse Tra11" was completed Journey by trail from Banff Construct10 n Of the through Yoho, utilizing to Jasper along the present lcefields Parkway com- abandoned railway grades day route of the lcefields menced in 1931, as a make- on the Big Hill above Field. Parkway was made in 1904 , work proj ect during the This roadbed would by a hunting party outfitted Great Depression. Cre 、 eventually become part of by Jim Brewster. Professor 、 vorked tO 、 MardS each Other the Trans-Canada H ighway, A. P. CoIeman, an old hand from Jasper and Lake the longest paved road in at exploration Of the Louise, meetlng at the Big the world. The section Rockies, made a similar trip Bend near Columbia through the Rockies opened three years later, and became lcefield in 1 男 9. With very

THE CANADIAN ROCKIES: A HISTORY PHOTOGRAPHS 67 ascents" Kain made during 気 h an elevation of 3954m / bold and ill-equipped 25 seasons 0f guiding in 12972 伝 Mt. Robson is the attempts on the imposrng highest mountarn in the 、 vest face Of the mountaln. Canada. On the last of these Kinney Many climbing routes Canadian Rockies, standing claimed success, although it have since been established head and shoulders above on Robson, and this difficult later became apparent they the rest. B efO re the construc- mountain has lOSt none Of had not quite reached the tion of the Grand Trunk Pacific Railway through the itS appeal tO n10 untarneers. summlt. Conquest Of the moun- area ln 1911, the mountarn tain then became a prlncip al and itS envlrons 、 kno 、 aim of the Alpine Club of only tO trappers, prospectors and a few intrepid explorers Canada. During the 1911 and guides. The first moun- Smithsonian/ACC expedition to Mt. Robson, Club talneermg attemptS on President A. O. Wheeler Robson [ 00k place in 1908. scouted the ViC1n1ty as a The following year, Rever- location for an ACC camp. end George Kinney and trail WheeIer wanted the highest guide Donald 。 Curly" Phillips made a series of peak in the Rockies [ 0 be climbed by Canadians ・ From the 1913 camp at Robson Pass, Austrian born mountaln guide Conrad Kain, led t 、 M() ACC members to the summit, fulfilling Wheeler s desire. Robson was one of 6 "first Opposite: The east face 0f Mt. Robson, 1913. Above: Climbers with movie camera on Mt. RespIendent, 1918. Mt. Robson is in the background.

ツを 44 THE CANADIAN ROCKIES: A HISTORY PHOTOGRAPHS 0- With little difficulty, CPR 、 a 、 a tralt common [ 0 many early mountameers in the S arbach led a talented mountameers VIS1ting the Rockies. Anglo-American party to the R. ockies 、 communl- The following year, summit of Mt. Lefroy. Two cate their exploits [ 0 Ⅱ OW members Of Boston S days later, Mt. Victoria, the climbers through publica- Appalachian Mountain mountain which forms the t10ns and lectures, thus Club made the first ascent glaciated backdrop at Lake attractlng more business tO of Mt. Hector, Just north of Louise, was ascended. The the mountarn hotels. ln Lake Louise. ln 1896 this CPR made note Of these and addition tO importing the club's focus turned to Mt. Other mountarneermg guides, the rail 、、 vent out Lefroy. On the summlt successes in 1897 , and t 、 MO Of itS 、 tO cater tO rocks, With the ascent almost years later began staffing its climbers. lt gave them use of assured, Phillip Abbot fellto mountain hOtelS 、 vith SWiSS hand cars tO allOW travel on his death. lt was the first G uides, thus assuring the rails at unusual hours, reco rded fatali in No rth climbers of greater safety i n and cut trails tO make easrer their pursuit. Suddenly, the approaches tO some American mountalneenng. ln 1897 , Peter Sarbach, a mountameering in the peaks. These special favours S 、 ViSS mountam guide 、 Rockies 、 an avocatlon t0 paid 0 伍 handsomely. ln brought to the Rockies to which almost anyone could their 、 videly read accounts, vindicate Abbot's death. the climbers extolled the asplre.

1 を冖 The Canadian Rockies A History in Photographs depicts the human history of the Canadian Rockies S1nce the construction Ofthe Canadian pacif1C Railway, and the founding of Banff, Canada's first national park. The maJ0r events and the most significant personalities in this vibrant history are portrayed with 140 archival photographs, accompanied by an informatlve and easy tO read text. This book is an ideal choice for anyone lookmg for an historical souvenir Of the Canadian Rockies. Third, revised edition Altitude The publisher that made the Canadian Rockies famous. GRAEME POLE ISBN 1 -55153-900-4 $ 10.95 9 7 81 5 51

THE CANADIAN ROCKIES: A HISTORY 爪 PHOTOGRAPHS 43 THE HIGH FRONTIER Opposite. Climbers on the summit Of Mt. Resplendent, duringthe 1913 Alpine Club 0f Canada, Mount Robson camp. lt was lnevitable mountaineering would became popular in the Rockies. The Canadian Pacific Railway was constructed thro ugh some of the most spectacular and challenging mountarn scenery in the 、 vorld. Hundreds Of 、 vere ln Vie 、伝 01 Ⅱ the rails; all unclimbed, most 、 aISO unnamed. Thousands more peaks lay hidden beyond. The Rockies and Selkirks were virtual blank maps, inviting mountameers summlt 、 Mard, tO etch their names on the sno 、リ pages of history. Glacier House, Mt. Stephen House and Chalet Lake Louise were comfortable lodgings on the doorsteps tO adventure and fame. B ut even more crucial tO the develop- ment Of mountalneerrng in Canada than the new accessibil- ity of the Rockies and Selkirks, was the timing of the completion of the CPR. By the 1870 ' s almost allthe mapr mountarns in Europe had been ascended. Mounta1neers eager for new terrain which offered the opportunity for coveted "first ascents". Thus the eyes Of the 、 moun- tameering elite turned to Canada. As it had done before with the hotsprings and its hotels, the CPR capitalized on this lnterest tO create successful industry in the ROCkies. first significant mountameering ascents from the rall 、 were made by government surveyors the 1880 S. These included Mt. Stephen at Field, and Mt. Rundle at BanfE A few other explorers climbed the odd ridge, and occasionally reached lesser summits during this but the birth Of recreational mountarneering in the ROCkies dates tO the summer Of 189 引 in the mountalns near l-•ouise. Samuel Allen, a student from YaIe, had visited the Rockies briefly in 1891 and stayed atthe original Chalet Lake Louise. Two years later he returned with Ⅱ ow student' Walter Wilcox, to make attempts on Mts. Victoria and Temple. Although unsuccessful, the 、 the nOVICe mountameers appetites for alpine for Wilcox, began an interest in the Rockies which would continue until hiS death in 1940. ln 1894 , the Yale Lake Louise Club' now five strong' returned and made first ascents 0f Mts. TemPle and Aber- deen , along With extenswe exp loratiO ns Of surrounding valleys. Not content merely with conquering the heightS' members Of this group spent considerable time and energy mapping' photographing and documenting whatthey saw ー

THE CANADIAN ROCKIES: A HISTORY 爪 PHOTOGRAPHS 45 Opposite: The Yale Lake Louise Club's camp in Paradise Valley near Lake Louise, 1894. Above: Samuel Allen near Opabin Pass, 1894. beauty and challenge of the explorer David Douglas in Rockies to the world. Walter 1827 , towered a mile higher Wilcox's first book, "Camp- than any Other mountains ing in the Rockies", became known in the Rockies. an lnstant success When Ultimately it 、 Mas proven published in 1896 , and went Hooker and Brown 、 through numerous prmtings mountalns Of less than and editions. average stature, but over a lt didn't takelong for the period of a decade, they lnterest Of the mountameer- inspired half a dozen ing elite to shift from the expeditions 1ntO the north peaks adjacentto the country. lt 、 on one Of Canadian Pacific Railway, to these expeditions, in 1898 , the unkno 、 ranges further Scottish mountameer J. 、・ . north. Atthe heart 0 「 this Collie and party made the lnterest 、 vas the mythic lure first reco rded observatlon of Mts. Hooker and Brown, and exploration of C01um- t 、 MO mountams adJ0ining bia lcefield. Athabasca Pass , which from observatlons recorded by

THE CANADIAN ROCKIES: A HISTORY 爪 PHOTOGRAPHS 89 こ第、イ 4 observatory, ( 、 vithout The Banff Park Museum, near the Bow River on Banff benefit of a gondola), and hiked over , 000 kilo- Aven ue, iS the Oldest natural metres in the line Of his history museum ln 、 vestern work. Sanson's last trip [ 0 Canada.Norman S anson 、 1tS curator 伝 01 Ⅱ 1896- the top of Sulphur was in 1945 , tO make observatlons 1942. The museum bene- of a solar eclipse. fited greatly from Sanson s Sanson contributed over dedicated work. His duties included the collection of one half of the specimens on display in the Banff Park plant and animal specimens Museum. Under his for the museum, and the administration , it became recording Of 、 veather data known as "The University 伝 om the observato atop Sulphur Mountain. ln all he of the Hills. ” The Museum was proclaimed a National made over 1000 tr1PS tO the Historic Site in 1985. The rurns 0 「 the observatory are on a summit of Sulphur Mounta1n no ー kno 、 as Sanson Peak. Opposite: lJpper Falls in 」 ohnston Canyon, n. d. Above: Norman Sanson (front row, 厄代 ) and friends at the observatory on Sulphur mountain, during Sanson's 1000th ascent, 」 u ツ 1 , 1931.

Above: Byron Harmon with Copyright ◎ 1991 Canadian CataIoguing in Altitude PubIishing Canada Ltd. Publication Data movie camera on Burgess Pass, Po 厄 , Graeme, 1956- 1917. Second, revised edition 1992 The Canadian Rockies: A History in Photographs 斤 0 尻 Cover: Teepee at Mt. Third, revised edition 1993 9 8 7 6 5 Assiniboine, 1920. ISBN 1 -55153-900-4 AII rights reserved. NO part of 1. ROCky Mountains, 石″ e Page: Gazebo by the this b00k may be reproduced in Canadian (). C. and Alta. ) ー lakeside trail, Lake Louise, ca. any form or by any means, History ー Pictorial works.* electronic or mechanical, 1900. l. Title. without permission in writing FC219. P64 1991 Back Cover: Captain Conrad from the publisher, except by a 971.1 ℃ 022 ワ O'Brien-ffrench with grizzly reviewer, WhO may quote brief C91-091280-7 bear, ca. 1950. passages in a review tO print in a F1090. P64 1991 magaz-lne or newspaper or broadcast on radiO or televison. Made in Western Canada P 「 inted and bound in Weste 「 n Canada by F 「 iesen P 「 inters, Altona Manit0ba. Altitude Publishing Canada Ltd. g 「 atefully acknowledges the suppo 「 t 0f the Canada/AIbe 「 ta Agreement on the cultu 「 alindust 「 ies. Design. R0bert MacDonaId, MediaCloneslnc. AItitude PubIishing Canada し t 土 The Canadian Rockies P.O. Box 1410 , Canmo 「 e AIbe 「 ta Canada TOL 0M0 AItitude GreenTree Program AItitude will plant in Western Canada twice as many t 「 ees as we 「 e used in the manufactu 「 ing 0f this b00k.