THE CANADIAN ROCKIES: A HISTORY PHOTOGRAPHS 51 The dapper figure of the Swiss Guide ー pipe 1n mouth, alpenstock in hand, rope coiled over the shoul- der, and fedora on top ー a strong image in the history of the Rockies. The first S 、 viss G uide came tO Canada in 1897. Others followed 。 years later, and quickly proved their value to both mountameers and the CPR. Opposite: Swiss Guides at the 1907 Alpine Club of Canada camp in Paradise Valley. Above: Swiss Guides returning from the first ascent of Mt. COllie, on the Wapta lcefield in what is now Yoho National Park, August 19 , 1901. The dotted line marks their route to the summit. Members of the Feuz family (pronounced fOitS) 、 amongst the most promi- nent and longest serving Of the guides. Edward Feuz Jr. led clients on thousands of ascents, including 78 firsts" during a forty-one year career in Canada. For $ 5.00 a day, novlce or expert alike could hire a Swiss Guide to lead them onto the heights. Much of the Swiss Guides' work involved repetltious ascents Of the regular routes on MtS. S tep hen , Victo ria, Lefroy, Temple and Sir Donald. But often they participated in more adventurous Journeys ofexploration further afield, during which dozens of new ascents were made. Typical Of these were the outings of mountameers ames Outram, J. N. Collie, J. W. A. Hickson and James Monroe Thorington ・ At first, the Guides returned tO their families in Switzerland each winter. Eventually 1 れ OS [ remained in Canada year-round, taking employment as caretakers Of the railway hotels during the off-season. The cpr built a village for the Swiss Guides near Golden, bc, so their families might alSO move tO Canada. Ed Feuz Jr. , last of the original Swiss G uides died at Golden in 1981, at age 96 ・

48 THE CANADIAN ROCKIES: A HISTORY IN PHOTOGRAPHS Travel north from Lake ho rse flies. There emerged a horses and clients, and Louise on expeditions at the new character in the history dealing with the host of turn Of the century 、 vas no of the Rockies, more than complications which could befall a party on the trail. equalto this task ー the trail easy matter. ConStruct10n and operation of the railway guide. They b uilt rafts to cross had brought a scourge of Colo urful characters wi th lakes and hunted game forest fires tO the regl()n. diverse backgrounds, many when provisions dwindled. What few trails existed were trail guides would become At night, around the choked with burned timber. legends in the Rockies. 川 1 campfire, they regaled their The early expeditions but a few got their start With clients 、 vith stories tall and northwards li terally cuttheir Tom Wilson s company in true. Few of the trail guides way through the valley B an 圧 To the trail guides 日 1 actually climbed, but their bottoms, amidst clouds Of the responsibilities Of 、 MOrk 、 not 、 vithout smoke, mosqtlltoes and cho osing and clearing the danger. One of the greates [ route, taking care Of the hazards in these early mountameerrng expeditions lay not on the peaks, but in crossing the swollen glacial melt rivers in the valley bottoms.

ツを 44 THE CANADIAN ROCKIES: A HISTORY PHOTOGRAPHS 0- With little difficulty, CPR 、 a 、 a tralt common [ 0 many early mountameers in the S arbach led a talented mountameers VIS1ting the Rockies. Anglo-American party to the R. ockies 、 communl- The following year, summit of Mt. Lefroy. Two cate their exploits [ 0 Ⅱ OW members Of Boston S days later, Mt. Victoria, the climbers through publica- Appalachian Mountain mountain which forms the t10ns and lectures, thus Club made the first ascent glaciated backdrop at Lake attractlng more business tO of Mt. Hector, Just north of Louise, was ascended. The the mountarn hotels. ln Lake Louise. ln 1896 this CPR made note Of these and addition tO importing the club's focus turned to Mt. Other mountarneermg guides, the rail 、、 vent out Lefroy. On the summlt successes in 1897 , and t 、 MO Of itS 、 tO cater tO rocks, With the ascent almost years later began staffing its climbers. lt gave them use of assured, Phillip Abbot fellto mountain hOtelS 、 vith SWiSS hand cars tO allOW travel on his death. lt was the first G uides, thus assuring the rails at unusual hours, reco rded fatali in No rth climbers of greater safety i n and cut trails tO make easrer their pursuit. Suddenly, the approaches tO some American mountalneenng. ln 1897 , Peter Sarbach, a mountameering in the peaks. These special favours S 、 ViSS mountam guide 、 Rockies 、 an avocatlon t0 paid 0 伍 handsomely. ln brought to the Rockies to which almost anyone could their 、 videly read accounts, vindicate Abbot's death. the climbers extolled the asplre.

94 THE CANADIAN ROCKIES: A HISTORY PHOTOGRAPHS Much to the chagrin of the Rockies. Now a rich part of guests. The Sunshine ski old-guard trail guides, who the area S human history, area 、 born. preferred winter travel on Skoki Lodge celebrated its ln the early days, before sno 、 vshoes, skiing in the 60th anmversary 1n 1991. rope tO 、 MS, lifts and sno 、 ROCkies began [ 0 catch on in mobiles, downhill skiers ln 1 男 4 , Jim Brewster the 1920 s. Jimmy Simpson obtained the 、 vinter lease on earned their runs by attach- called skiers : people wi th a CPR trail cabin just belOW ing tractlon-gwing seal skins wooden heads and feet to the Sunshine Meadows. The tO their SkiS, and "skinning match. " Nonetheless , the area had been visited by up hill. The first permanent Banff Ski Club was skiers from Banff during 1 翫 at Sunshine was installed founded, and its members several prevlous 、 M1nters, and ln 1945. Access tO S01 e Of took their skill and enthusi- was noted for its delightful the upper ski slopes was asm to the slopes of Mt. skiing conditions. Bre 、 vster provided by snowmobile No rquay, above the town. explored the area s potential buses, and in the days before Soon after, northeast Of as a Ski resort for t 、 V() the gondola, the ski area was Lake Louise in the Skoki seasons. Results 、 reached トメ a hair-ralsing Valley (pronounced SKOWE- promrsing, and the cabin drive a10 ng the access ro ad key), Sk1 enthusiasts con- was bought outright. from Healy Creek. structed the first back Mounta1n guides were soon hired to teach skiing to country ski lodge in the Above: Ski jumping at Mt. Norquay, n. d. Opposite: Sunshine L0dge and snowmobile bus, n. d.

THE CANADIAN ROCKIES: A HISTORY PHOTOGRAPHS 87 AR+ Opposite: The tea house at Lake Top: Looking out at the BOW Agnes, 1923. The tea house River from Hole-in-the-Wall, a was reconstructed in 1981. cave high on Mt. Cory, n d Bottom. Tom Wilson and George Fear at their Banff Avenue curio store, ca. 1894.

0 0 0 6 4 Top: WiIIiam Vaux 」 r. (with ln the late 1880 ' s the glaciers 儀 mil メ (pronounced vox). camera), and George Vaux of the Rockies and Selkirks George Vaux Sr. and (third from 厄升 ) , with Swiss 、 at the maxlmum extent family, first visi ted the Guides and companions on Victoria Glacier, 1900. of their most significant Rockies and Selkirks in 1887. recent advance. The Victor1a D uri ng the next rty years , Opposite top. Louise Creek and Glacier, beyond Lake various family members a view to Mt. Victoria, Lake Louise, 1900. Louise, extended I. 2 made annual visits tO the kilometres closer to thelake Canadian mo untams , taking Opposite bottom: lce cave at than at present. Athabasca particular in terest in glaciers , the terminus of Yoho Glacier, 1906. Glacier blocked the valley pho tography and botany. now occupied by the They recorded detailed lcefields Parkway. Today accounts Of their travels and glaciologists study the observatlons, publishing landscape for clues, attempt- papers and presenting ing to decipher the past and lectures at home in Philadel- present behaviour Of phia. Amongsttheir most glaciers. ln some cases they enduring contributions are are literally able to complete stunning black and white the picture by referring to landscape images 0 fthe remarkable photographs Rockies and Selkirks, taken shortly after the completion depicting the extent Of of the railway. glacial ice in the decades around the turn 0 f the century. Many of these pho- tographs were the skilled work of upper class Quakers from Philadelphia, the Vaux

THE CANADIAN ROCKIES: A HISTORY 爪 PHOTOGRAPHS 101 Opposite: The entrance tO little in the way of heavy M uch of the original grade ROCky Mountains Park (Banff), equipment tO aid their task, is still in use today. The 1921. workers toiled for $ 5.00 per lcefields Parkway was Above: The Bow River and month plus room and officially opened in 1940 , mountains near Lake Louise, and the scenery it offered board. Horses brought in from the Banff-Lake Louise from the pralrres tO aSSISt ln the motorlst 、 vas heralded as Road, now the BOW Valley Parkway, 1921. t 、 Menty S 、 vitzerlands in the clearing OP erations were noticed tO suffer 、 vith the one. " The road was up- effects of altitude at Bow graded and paved between 1956 and 1961, and is still Pass, the highest point considered by many [ 0 be crossed by roadway ln the most spectacular drive in Canada. Many of the the world. construct10 n camps used by ln 1990 the lcefields the 、 vorkers became the sites of today's roadside camp- Parkway celebrated its 50th grounds ・ anmversary, and Jasper The finished product was Natio nal Park hosted a a ち 0 kilometre gravel road, reumon Of some Of those 6.5 metres in width, and in who had worked on the no place steeper than 8 %. original constructlon. マ′イを ~ 一

60 THE CANADIAN ROCKIES: A HISTORY 爪 PHOTOGRAPHS Above: Packtrain on The following year, during During a 19 ち expedition to Saskatchewan Glacier, Columbia Columbia lcefield, trail the National Geographic lcefield Expedition, 1924. guide J immy S impso n did expedition tO Columbia Opposite top. ・ The Glacier something he'd been lcefield, horses were again Belle" on Glacier Lake, 1902. wanting to try for years ー he taken ontO Saskatche 、 」 . N. Collie's mountaineering drove his pack horses along Glacier. Photographer party used the raft t0 cross the lake on their way t0 the Lyell the icy surface of S askatche- Byron Harmon got great lcefield 、 Glacier. Simpson S mileage out of the unlikely lmage Of a packtraln on 1Ce. motlvatl()n 、 a shortcut 〇 pposite bottom: lce cave at the terminus of Athabasca on the journey bet 、 Castleguard Meadows soon Glacier, 1914. Castleguard Meadows, on became a regular stoppmg the southern edge of place on trail rides between Columbia lcefield, and Jasper and Lake Louise, Sunwapta Pass. The horses organized by Jack Brewster. apparently took t0 the ice meadO 、、 rou- with little fuss, which is tinely reached by crossing the ice, and the excurslon surpriS1ng, the temperament Of the average became known as "The pack animal. Little did Glacier Trail. Simpson realize, he had started a trend.

THE CANADIAN ROCKIES: A HISTORY 爪 PHOTOGRAPHS 15 M れ Street and Cascade MO ひ n ねⅲ , 0 , 6 れ ~ B れ Canadian Rockies. を。 THE COMFORTS OF HOME The histories of the Canadian Pacific Railway, Canada's natio nal park system, and the town of Banff are inextricably entwined in a remarkable fabric Of endeavour, C1rcumstance and discovery. ln November 188 引 as constructl()n Of the CPR in the Bow Valley wound down for the winter, three railway 、 vorkers came tO the vicrnity Of Banff tO prospect for Opposite: Banff Avenue, 1887. Top: Banff Avenue, 1914. minerals. While approaching Sulphur Mountain, WilIiam and Tom McCardell, and Frank McCabe chanced upon the outlets of several natural hot springs. The three men knew, in a land without plumbing a hot bath was worth a princely sum. They staked a clalm and sought ownership of the springs, but 、 informed that since the mountams 、 notsurveyed, no mineral claims could be allowed. Mean- while, word ofthe sprmgs got around, and others wanted in on the claim and the fortune 1t would surely bring. The triO 、 vere rnept in their business dealings regarding the springs. The hubbub created by various claims and counterclalms tO ownership naturally attracted the attentlon Of the federal government, 、 sent an agent tO inspect the claim. Meanwhile, word 0f the springs also reached WiIIiam Cornelius Van Horne, Vice President and

72 THE CANADIAN ROCKIES: A HISTORY PHOTOGRAPHS ROOMS 「 7 attack by German U-boats, hiS partlcipatlon on many guides and 0 utfitters the Allies experimented with capitalized on ne 、 opportu- mountarneerlng ascents, maklng an ai rcraft Harmon's photography nltles ー operating IOdges, 仔 01 れ a mrxture Of ice and offered a unique and boat tours, and pioneerlng remarkably popular perspec- downhill skiing in the wood chips. Despite Rockies. enthusiastic backing by tlve on the Rockies. Many of the photographs repro- Before the days of none Other than Sir 、仮 n ー duced in this book come refrigeration, the ice harvest ston Churchill, the bizarre idea was fraught with 伝 0n1 the collection Of more 、 an important annual problems, and was aban- than 6500 Byron Harmon enterpnse in the ROCkies. lmages, Ⅵ , ・ preserved in Large ChunkS Of ice 、 cut doned the following winter ・ from the frozen surface of the Whyte Museum at Lake Louise and the Bow Ban 圧 The advent of the River, and stored in ice houses for use ln stores and automobile during the hotels the following sum- second decade of the 19th century, made business ln mer. This difficult job provided employment for the Rockies mercurial. Some SWiSS Guides and outfitters traditional enterpnses, such during the off-season. as trail guiding, declined' as North Americans expressed Pro bably the stranges [ endeavour in the history Of their ne 、 found fascination the Rockies took place in With the horseless carriage. Ultimately of course, the the winter of 194 引 at Patricia Lake near Jasper ・ automobile created more Desperate for a vessel which industry ln tourrsm than it would be invincible to undermined, and some Above: Ban 幵 Avenue during the Winter Carnival, 1929. opposite top: The ice palace at the first Winter Carnival, 1917. Prisoner Of war labour was used tO construct the palace. 〇 pposite わ 0 om : Ph0tographer Byron Harmon on CastIeguard Mountain, 1924.