をを 物第物 1 物第朝物を第 ・物議第季 ー 0 第ををキ 0 ーをキ 第のを 1 の・ MUSIC A Big Year 応 r … Early listens suggest a warm, tenderjoy Of a record. ARCADE FIRE The Dessner Brothers Primave 「 a Sound Festival, Ba 「 celona, Spain, 」 une 3 : then touring These Canadian multi- instrumentalists—dark, driven and one of the most incandescent live bands on the planet— take 0 幵 on a short European tour. Plus, there are murmurings of a new album. ANNA MEREDITH & SHLOMO MUSIC FESTIVALS have changed consider- ably over the past decade. Once they were huge corporate beasts, famed for mud' bad fOOd and even worse behavior. ln recent years, they've grown 1 れ ore intimate— smaller, family-friendly boutique affairs 0 代 ring gin b ars , gourmet burgers and liter- ary tents. NOW a new generation offestivals is emerging, ones that are artist-led' collab- orative and fiercely local. At the heart ofthis revolution stand Aaron and Bryce Dessner 0f American band the National. Whether alone or together, the Dessner brothers have overseen a con- founding array 0f musical gatherings, from 、第ズ尋イ MusicNOW in their native Cincinnati tO New York's Crossing Brooklyn Ferry, BOSton calling and Sounds From a Safe Harbour in Cork, lreland. They worked with Bon lver t0 create the Eaux Claires festival in Wiscons1n and were an integral part Of the Funkhaus musical styles. Bryce is an accomplished festival in Berlin in October, where more composer, comm1SSioned by institutlons than 80 muslcians tOOk over the abandoned such as the Los Angeles Philharmonic, studios Of a former East German radiO sta- the Barbican Centre in London and the tion for a weeklong melding Of muSIC, art, New York City Ballet, and often working film and dance. With Other prominent m11SIC1ans, includ- This summer they unveil the Haven festi- ing Philip Glass, Sufian Stevens and Steve val in Copenhagen, launched in partnership ReiCh. Aaron IS an acclaimed record pro- with Danish fOOd activist Claus Meyer ducer who has collaborated with visual and a 10Ca1 brewery, Mikkeller. Held artists including Sharon Van Etten and Lisa on the Refshaleøen, a former indus- Hannigan. SO the festival is likely t0 press trial site and shipyard ⅲ Copenha- gen's harbor, the idea is that Haven classical muSICIans up against SOIIIC exper- lmentation, electronica and CIassiC should be a place for musical roll—and while the 血Ⅱ lineup hasn't been experimentation and collabo- announced yet, the National' with a highly ration, paymg little heed t0 anticipated album out this year' IS a guar- conventional notions Of hOW anteed headliner. That in itself is enough festival sets should be run and ignoring the traditional reason to book a ticket. ー L.B. ロ limitations ofgenre. The Dessners are accus- HAVEN Copenhagen Refshaleøen, August 11-12 ; tome d tO cross-pollinating tickets via BILLETLUGEN. DK Venue TBA, HuII, EngIand, July ] t0 2 Southbank Centre, London. July 7-9 GENRE THERAPY: Bryce Dessner, pictured, and his brother Aaron, b 可 0 Ⅳ left, are rethinking ′は物 nature of Scottish composer Anna Meredith is an extraordinary, unclassifiable talent—a whirligig Of classical, electronica, stomping brass and majestic pop. Here She revives her collaboration with beatboxer Shlomo as part Of the IJ. K. New MUSiC Biennial. BRUNO MARS 4 T-MobiIe Arena, Las Vegas, 」 uIy15;thentouring Mars's 24K Magic tour iS a COIOSSUS.• an 85-date mega-slog, taking the Hawaiian's über-slick R&B pop and impeccable dance moves from Vegas t0 Norway and beyond. ー LAURA BARTON E E K 60 01 / 13 / 2 0 17

D 0 W N T I M E / B E S T 0 F 2 0 1 7 FOOD A Big Year 応 r … K0ji EVERY FEW DAYS, David Zilber, the fermentation sous chef grow it on substrates that would be unthinkable tO a Japanese at Noma in Copenhagen, walks into one ofthe shipping con- chef."For 1 , 300 years, we were not allowed to eat animal pro- tainers that serves as his lab and peers intO a tray ofmoldering tein because Of Buddhism, SO we used kOji tO obtain a sub- barley. lt 100kS , with its coating of fuzz, like something you stitute protein from soybeans, wheat and rye,' says Shinobu might find growing at the back ofyour refrigerator. lt's koji, Namae, chef Of L'Effervescence in Tokyo. "lt blew me away he explains with pride. "And it's a game changer. when I learned that Noma was growing k0Ji on meat. Used for millennia in Japan and China to ferment foods They're not the only ones experimenting. At McCrady's in and drinks, koji is a fungus—proper name A 平ビ襯 0 りにー Charleston, South CaroIina, Sean Brock grows koji on dried commonly grown on COOked grains. If you ve ever eaten SOY string beans tO use in a mISO paste. At Emmer & Rye in Aus- sauce, or sipped a bowl Of miso, you ve tasted the effects Of tin, Texas, Kevin Fink tops his cheesecake with crumbs made koji: lt gives those f00ds their punch from a koji cookie. ln San Sebastian, Of umami flavor, and alSO actS as northern Spain, Andoni Aduriz of the fermenting agent in alcoholic Mugaritz serves a dish called rice drinks such as sake and 朝 4 . Now cake made from koji and the grains it s working its way ontO Western it grows on. One Ofour S1gnatures iS menus, ways no sake master could tO work with textures," Aduriz says. have imagined. "And the koji makes the rice cake" "At Noma, we use koji for flavor, which is dense but yielding—' into says zilber. "But the great thing something like french toast. ” about it is that it's bOth an ingredi- Now that Western chefs have dis- ent and an instrument. lt's delicious, covered the transformative proper- but you can also use it as a tool—the ties 0fk0ji, this little fungus is likely enzymes [that the fungus produces] t0 stay on the menu. "The world 0f break down proteins, SO for example fermentation IS SO infinite," says you can use it tO tenderize meat. zilber. "There's way more possibil- Western chefs are learnlng not ities with it than with, say, sauteing only tO use kOji in new ways but to vegetables. ” ーん A ABEND っ 0 GROWING TREND. Koji fUngUS iS seen through a nucroscope. 5 CHEFS WHO 」 EONG KWAN KAMILLA SEIDLER Baekyangsa Temple, Gustu, La Paz, Bolivia ARE COOKING Bukha-myeon, South Korea SeidIer recently won LISA LOV the title of Latin Eric Ripert, the Tigermom, Copenhagen America's best female celebrated, French- chef for her ambitious born chef of three- As the former sous cooking that has MicheIin-starred Le chef of the acclaimed helped shape a sense Bernardin in New York, ReIae, LOV helped of BoIivian terroir.ln considers Kwan among shape Copenhagen's 2017 , she'll expand the best cooks in the dining revolution. With Gustu's educational world—a remarkable her own restaurant, and social outreach achievement fO 「 a Tigermom, due tO programs,launching Buddhist nun with open in the spring, three bakeries and neither a restaurant no 「 it's safe tO expect more of her Gustu paying customers. With that she'll continue culinary schools. an episode Of Netflix's tO push beyond foodie favorite A Chef's Nordic boundaries, b 厄 about her coming showcasing local BEAU CLUGSTON soon, the clamor fO 「 ingredients in the Kwan's vegetarian bright, ethnic cuisines cuisine, cooked for The Australian-born that express her mixed visitors tO her temple, Clugston (right) Chinese-New Zealand- iS sure tO grow. recently tOOk over the Canadian background. kitchen of Le 6 and set tO invigorating itS menu with a creativity honed at his former employer, Noma. HiS inventive tasting menu edges toward fine dining, while the warm, buzzy atmosphere keeps the restaurant firmly in bistro territory. ANGELA DIMAYUGA Mission Chinese Food, New 「 k Long a guiding force at Mission's rule-breaking Chinese restaurants, Dimayuga is emerging from behind the scenes. NOW managing partner, she'll be collaborating with the Massachusetts lnstitute Of Technology on a project tO develop fermentation boxes—and associated health protocols—for restaurants. ー L. ス . ロ Le 6 Paul Bert, Paris 57 N E W S W E E K 01 / 1 3 / 2 017

people ever t0 glimpse the molecular mysteries be defeated, but that is not what drives her. Her that result in the conception ofhuman life. real motivation IS cracking the scientific mys- The woman at the vanguard of this effort is tery Of human reproduction. "lt has the poten- 38-year-old Niakan, petite and dark-haired, with tial tO really revolutionize our understanding of a birdlike face.When she greets me in May ⅲ her human biology in a petri dish," she says. 'That's temporary lab in the Mill Hill neighborhood of fascinating tO me. " Using a gene-editing tool north London, she could easily be mistaken for an called CRISPR-Cas 9 (pronounced "crisper") undergraduate in her leggings and knitted jumper. that can cut and edit DNA very precisely, she As she describes what an early human wants tO isolate genes thought tO be important embryo—or blastocyst—looks like on Day Five for fetal development; only then can we figure Of its existence, she grabs a scrap of paper and out exactly what role each plays. begins tO sketch. Every SO often, she punctuates TOday, When a ル V01 れ an comes lll tO a CliniC for the illustration with circled numbers to show IVF treatment, experts score her embryo quality the 10W survival rate of IVF embryos: OnIy 40 based on physical shape, size and other visible percent 0f fertilized embryos become blasto- features, rather than genetic features. AIthough cysts, 0f which only 50 percent will implant embryos can be screened for れ 0S0n1a1 in a woman S uterus. Another 50 percent, she abnormalitie s, little is known ab out human devel- says, fail t0 make it past three months 0f devel- opmental genetics at this early stage. There are opment. Right now, we have little idea why very few molecular tools used to identify those embryos fail so often. When I point out that, embryos. We know there's a 50 percent drop- statistically, it seems mlraculous that humans 0 代 rate, so I think there 's room to determine the have been reproducing successfully for centu- key signatures that embryos need t0 successfully ries, she exclaims, "I know, right?" implant, ” Niakan says. "lt could increase the The daughter of lranian lmmlgrants, "lt's very diffcult to have a real debate Niakan grew up in the small town of about gene manipulation because everyone iS scared Silverdale, Washing- the argument will become about abortion. ' ton, where her father was a neurologist. She became interested in genetics as a first-year student at the University chances [ofpregnancyl, or it could help t0 choose ofWashington in Seattle, where she begged to be those embryos that will likely go on to develop allowed to wash dishes in a lab that studied con- successfully into a healthy baby. " Eventually, the genital diseases in large families; the lab allowed knowledge could help us fathom causes ofrepro- her tO assist researchers studying human genet- ductive defects or even infertility. ics, and she eventually discovered the gene The HFEA spent three years investigating Niakan's request tO use the CRISPR-Cas 9 scis- responsible for a type Of thalassemia, a genetic b100d disorder. "I remember being ln a genetics sors, conducting a series Of detailed inspections class and... I just loved it," Niakan says. I was ofher lab work, including whether embryos were hooked, and since then I haven't stopped. handled respectfully and carefully in the lab, and Niakan has studied developmental biology if donors were counseled and updated appropn- at the University of CaIifornia, Harvard Uni- ately. Niakan was notified Of their decision ⅲ late versity and the University of Cambridge in the January. The overwhelming feeling wasn't excite- U. K. , where she moved in 2009 as a postdoc- ment or even elation, she says; she had just been toral fellow. "The U. K. has very proactive ways afraid that irrationality and fe ar of the unknown 0f approaching reproductive health and medi- would Win out ove r SC1ence. cine," she says. "lt's brilliant and it's the reason The decision was celebrated by scientists, why l've stayed for so long. patient groups with genetic diseases and moth- Her goal is tO understand the earliest stages Of ers whO had struggled tO conceive. Emma Ben- a human life, when we are nothing but a ball of Jamin, a 34-year-old woman WhO miscarried four 200 cells. She knows her work could ultimately times, spoke widely t0 the press 0fher support. I help women tO concelve and genetic diseases tO found it frustrating I never had answers as to why I kept miscarrying," she said. "lf this research had come earlier and could have helped me pro- vide answers, then I guess, you know, it could have maybe saved a lot ofheartache. 十 FROM TEST TUBE TO TODDLER: Louise Brown was the world's first baby created through in ⅵ t 「 0 fertilization. NEWSWEEK 33 01 / 13 / 2017