ーの 0 もⅳ 5 - HEAR ltalian director Daniele Abbad0 ( わ elo ル ) brings a new production ofVerdi dizzymg, melodramatic opera 〃胼 4 知尾 tO the Staatsoper, Vienna, with Roberto Alagna as the doomed Manrico. STAY T, ん Dra ルⅲ丑ィー 48 イ roo 〃が 4 と 4 川右 g リイ市 c 知 co 〃川 20m ワ ra ルⅲ g ー叩 0 ⅲ 4 ″ 0 〃な右 ~ 4 ′な , ル i み 0 を 4 ′加ァ催ⅲ ev ワ roo 川 . ・ 03 辷コ S38 っ 19d 38 コト N3ttOV 尋】。 N00N01 一 0d3 」あ S3flN コ 30 & ・ VS13 一 8 3 工 dO ト S & 工 0 ・ I 6 3 On the rare occaS1011S that the French fashion set dO eat, they go tO Ferdi's. Now a London outpost ofthe tiny parisian brassene has opened in Mayfair—just in time for Fashion Week. SEE Find seventh heaven at the Kennedy Center in Washington, D ℃” as the Alvin Ailey American Dance Theater stages seven performances for the centenary ofPresident Kennedy's birth. EAT 4 VISIT Finally, a party to which you re invited. The Berlin lnternational Film Festival hosts the world premiere 0fSally potter's The R り , with Cillian Murphy and Kristin Scott Thomas ( 励の . 2 BUY From tick-tock to drip-drop: The German designer Patrick Palcic has launched this copper wall clock, which releases puffs ofa different fragrance t0 mark the turning ofeach hour. ferd ・ i NEWSWEEK 64 02 / 10 / 2017

to hold champagne and to hold bottle s of Ricard past1S. (This last case was particularly special: lt was a present for patrick's 60th birthday. ) Extraordinary though some 0f them may sound, thanks tO Patrick's sketches, suggestions and accumulated experience, these pieces Of luggage are remarkably practical.Whether it is a trunk specifically designed to meet the demands Of a Chinese tea ceremony (one was being made That rather impressive trick speaks t0 a life- when I toure d the workshops) or the adapta- tlme 0f craftsmanship. Under the supe rusion 0f t10n Of an existing model with a fastening here, Patrick, the carpentry te am builds poplar frame s a pocket there or a compartment elsewhere tO for all the traditional pieces of Louis Vuitton lug- transform it intO the perfect travel compan- gage, on top Of which the famous prote ctive can- ion, one thing is always true: The best bit about vas skin is mounte d. The compound iS alSO where special orders are exe- cuted, roughly 300 0f them a year ・ A T UNK FOR A TAIWANES There have been some spectacular C01 れ 1 れ ISSIOII including a trunk for a CU TOMER HELD A DVD Taiwanese customer that contained a R, FILM LIBRARY AN P DVD player, film library and espresso machine, complete with solar panel CO FEE MACHINE, COMPL TE SO that the owner could enjoy a WI H SOLAR PANEL. coffee and a movie wherever he happened t0 find himself. With Pat- rick's guldance, the workshops have shown themselves capable of mak- mg medicine chests, keepsake boxe s for a child 's asking L0tus Vuitton for a specially ordered bag milk te eth, a casino trunk (including a roulette or trunk is the chance tO spend a little time with its founder's great-great-grandson. ロ wheel)—indeed, trunks de signe d for most activ- ities and interests, including tattooing, hairdress- Le Galerie LouisVuitton, Asniéres-Sur-Seine, France: ing, collecting Barbie dolls and playmg croquet ・ by appointment on ツ via + 33 ( 0 ) 9 77 40 40 77. For special They ve made cases t0 hold guitars and cigars, orders, see LOUISVUITTON.COM D 0 W N T I M E / S T Y L E 0 十 THEARTOF TRAVEL: Patrick Louis Vuitton at work in the garden at Asniéres, with one Of hiS own special orders, a case designed f0 「 watercolorists. N011 一つ > IS()OI 60 N E W S W E E K 0 2 / 10 / 2 017 第一

キる 第を学 0 を ・を物を 0 瞬 日み を洋ん、朝、 ・をを第 第を驫第を 、さを をツ第 物第第を鬢 を々お 0 上に 0 物を ・ツみ朝、 0 物・第尹 、物ををま当 上物キ、第 新を、み朝 第を妻 0 0 ま を・を第 物第第 0 第第を 第 4 4 を第宿を ま第お、第 物を第き - 第、 、第ヨ呼物ー D 0 W N T I M E / S T Y L E THE CURATED LIFE A SPECIAL CASE Louis Vuitton's great-great-grandson ⅲ、 he 信、 1 新靨 ke 10gg0g0 LOUIS VUITTON means the same thing wherever you are in the world—except in Asniéres-sur- seine lll northern France. Here, it JllSt means "the locals. ” while it was still a small village by the river, rather than the Parisian suburb it is today, Asnieres was the subject 0f paintings by Seurat and Van Gogh. lt was also where, in 1859 , the founding family 0f the luxury luggage-maker decided t0 open its factory, right next door t0 the comfortable family villa. lt remained the compa- ny's only workshop until 1977. T0day, it is Patrick Lou1S Vuitton wh0 pre- sides over a walled compound that would still be recognizable tO his great-grandmother—because Asniéres is still where Louis Vuitton makes all its special orders, as well as the 2 , 200 or SO pieces Of the traditional hard-side d suitca se s and trunks it sells annually. The site also houses the bulk 0f the Vuitton archive , and it include s the recently opened La Galerie, a public space devoted t0 the history of the marque ・ The compound still feels like a home. The grandest Of the Vuitton stores around the world are called 襯 4 な 0 れ s, but some are SO big that 24 / - 4 い might be a 1 ore accurate description. Mai- 〃 is, however, the perfect term tO capture the truly domestic scale 0f Asniéres. Off the villa's entrance hall is a dining room with a table that can seat a dozen people. lt leads intO an art nouveau drawing room, with a splendidly cur- vaceous fireplace and trailing tendrils 0f ivylike plasterwork that make it a little like sitting inside a bottle of perrier Jouét Cuvée Belle Epoque champagne. But even here the feel is grounded rather than grand, partly because you can see through the extravagant staine d-glass windows to the solid practicality 0f the workshops: two two-story buildings with cream plasterwork and vaulted, black-framed windows, to which the house IS J0ined by a glass-covered arcade. That Asniére s still fe els like a family home partly thanks t0 Patrick Lou1S Vuitton. A gentle- 100king man with close-cropped hair, he wears sewn ont0 the lapel 0f his corduroy jacket, the green- and-red ribbon 0f the Mérite Agricole—a sort Of Légon d'honneur for farmers and country- men. His family home may now be a 20-minute drive 仕 om Vu1tton s multistory 襯 4 い 0 〃 on the Champs-Elysées—but the man has a distinct feel of 川朝れ . He hunts deer and regularly travels to what he describes as the "cradle of the fam- ily ”—the Jura, the region 0f eastern France that his great-great-grandfather le 代 when he headed to Paris ⅲ the mid-19th century—to 100k up Vu1t- ton COUSIIIS and ViSit hiS favorite pipe-makers. patrick was born in 1951 , grew up in the Asniéres villa and began work in the factory next door. His great-grandmother, wh0 died in 1964 at 104 , was Louis Vultton's daughter; she used t0 tell patrick stories 0f the family's past and 0f the historical events she experienced, including the siege Of paris in the 1870S. lt's now patrick's BY NICHOLAS FOULKES NEWSWEEK 58 02 / 10 / 2017

job t0 keep the family's memories alive, and with ROUGHLY 300 SPECIAL his tales Of early mormngs as a youngster in the factory, heating the foul-smelling bone- and fish- ORDERS ARE MADE AT based glue, he transports his listeners back tO a ASNIERES EACH YEAR. tme when VuItton was much smaller than tOday. He says that during the 1960S and 1970S , the entire business consisted Ofone ShOP in paris and another in Nice, while administration and manu- story Of hOW he was once be ing interviewed on facturing employed between 120 and 130 people. Japanese television when the journalist handed Much has changed since then, not least the glue, which no longer stmks offish and doesn't need to him a vmtage LOLIIS Vu1tton briefcase and asked be heated before you can use it. him tO identify its age. He inspected it inside and Patrick has worked 43 years for the company, out; then he not only gave the correct year ofpur- both underthe ownership ofhis family and latterly chase but said it had been bought in July, in Nice— ofthe LVMH conglomerate, and his knowledge is though he does admit he was a couple ofweeks 0 代 encyclopedic. With amusement, he tells the the exact date. LEFT LUGGAGE: The archive at Asniéres includes Vuitton trunks, boxes and cases f 「 0n1 almost 160 years Of manufacturing. N011 一 n > S 一コ 0 コ NEWSWEEK 59 02 / 10 / 2017

十 IT'S A FIX: Why can't AppIe give customers cover- glass that lasts? Smashing Times not an uptick in business from disappointed lovers on Valentine's Day. Other holidays are better news. "Usually after the drinking days, like New Year's Eve or St. Patrick's Day, we'll have a big influx," says Dan, Brendan's brother. ls it fair, then, to characterize TEN YEARS AGO, AppIe began those t00 lazy or apathetic the design Ofthe iPhone as a selling the iPhone, a beautiful kept using them. piece ofmetaland glass that Soon after the iPhone was spectacular failure? Obviously, changed the world. Then some released, blogs circulated a device humans carry in clumsy idiot dropped it. cheap, warranty-violating their hands at all times will lt's difficult tO say for certain fixes for broken screens. An be dropped. Yet, 10 years who the first clumsy idiot industry grew around the after its invention, it 】 ust was. lt seems likely it was an problem, offering black- market take s one clumsy mistake tO repairs in the backs 0f b0 degas. Apple employee, testing it smash an iPhone S creen intO before release. lt's possible it Brendan McElroy started a spider web. If one wants tO was Steve Jobs. The keys in his the iPhone repair service Dr. be conspiratorial, the lack 0f durability serves the purposes pocket scratched the crap out Brendan's in his New York ofindustry. Phones break; new ofhis prototype. One month City apartment in 2008. lt phones are released, always before the phone was released, became SO successfulthat, a with newer, better features. he threw a tantrum atAppIe. 町 fewyears later, he opened a But despite s ome recent bricks - and-mortar shop. The won't sell a product that gets design updates promising 、 the scratched," he said, according maJority ofrepalrs are, he says, to T ん N ル YO ド々川 . "lwant for accidental damage, like strongest cover glass used on any smartphone in the world, a glass screen, and I want it dropping phones on the ground the screens still shatter. perfect in SiX weeks. or intO a toilet. 'We've seen it Meanwhile, AppIe removed He got his way. Sort Of. as bad as it can get. Run over by trucks, dropped 0 仕 roofs. the headphone jacks. Which, Although it was better coincidentally, are one Ofthe protected against keys, the S ometimes the damage few safety systems protecting glass still shattered in certain iS caused on purpose. get a 10t 0f angry significant- "medium-velocity impacts. " As against broken screens. For mo 代 people bought iPhones, Other stories," McElroy says. what is a headphone wire but an accidental, protective phone more people dropped them. 'A girlfriend or boyfriend Humans are clumsy; sidewalks found something on [theirl bungee cord, dangling are hard. Sometimes the phone and threw it—it's very a dropped iPhone inches from phones remained usable, and common. " Despite this, there's its destruction? ロ A decade ofiPhones? That's a decade ofbroken screens k トト 39 、 VOVN 一工 S 08 一工 S01 BY 」 OE VEIX 当 @joeveix NEWSWEEK 61 02 / 10 / 2017

annual consumption iS 400 grams per person— As once-frozen landscapes defrost, they the government has largely take n control 0f the alSO become more appealing tO nonindigenous humans. ln many parts Of the Arctic, indus- killing and butchering 0f reindeer, monopoliz- try and even conventional agriculture are now ing distribution networks and requuring that any encroaching on grazing lands that herders have meat for public sale be prepared in industrial slaughterhouses. The industrialization 0f the depended on for more than a thousand years. ln 、 10ng0 ⅱ a , mmers have destroyed S01 れ e reindeer process has tended tO drive down prices for rein- habitats in their quest for gold. ln Siberia, new deer meat. And while the government has com- roads designed t0 provide quick access have dis- pensated herders with subsidies, it pays only for rupted migration route S. any calves that are killed; the Sami don t usually These changes are less apparent in the west- kill and eat calves in large numbers, since they are necessary for maintaining the herd's Size. ern Arctic, though they dO exist. ln northern NOW it's the meat monopoly controlling those Finland, for example, forestry is becoming more effcient, resulting in sparser foliage Of the sort things, says Anders Oskal, executive director Of that reindeer need tO eat. And in Norway, reced- the ICR, which is located in the northern Nor- wegian city 0f Guovdageaidnu. "And ifwe don't ing ice has likewise brought new industries— mimng, wind farming, hydroelectric dams ・—tO practice them ourselves, we re in danger Of 10S - the coastal areas Of the northernmost Finnmark ing our traditional knowle dge. region. lt has even led tO the growth Of conven- tional animal husbandry in the area, all ofwhich THE REINDEER RESISTANCE means greater competition for habitats. With his lush mustache and royal blue tunic But SO far, climate-related changes in Scandina- adorned with grosgrain ribbons and heavy silver Vian herding areas have been modest. 、åore wor- brooches, Oskal bears a certain resemblance tO the Emerald City gatekeeper in The Ⅳ 4 0 rymg, according t0 the Sami, wh0 herd the great maJ0rity 0f the country's roughly 200 , 000 rein- But rather than keeping anyone out, he is dedi- deer, are the forms ofgovernment intervention. cated tO bringing them in. At the ICR, he oversees a course 0f study that teaches indigenous young ln the past, the Sami butchered reindeer at h01 れ e and in seasons that varied according tO people about evetything from traditional slaugh- the animals' gender and age. But as Norwegians ter and cooking methods t0 biodiversity and legal rights. 。 Our focus isn t on training people SO they taste for reindeer meat has grown—the average REINDEER RODEO: A Sami man in northern Sweden catches a reindeer calf ready f0 「 labeling last year. NEWSWEEK 56 02 / 10 / 2017

push tO strike pacts with Other nations. The same day that Trump consigned the TPP t0 the Oval Offce wastebasket, a Chinese initiative had some good news tO share. The multilateral Asian lnfrastructure lnvestment Bank, which was set up by Beijing in 2015 tO finance infrastructure proJects across Asia, had received applications from 25 new prospectlve members fror れ Africa, Europe and South America, t0 add t0 the 57 existing shareholders. The し S. had been hostile tO the bank, seeing it as a challenge to existing institutions, such as the World Bank, and had declined t0 join; it chastised others, including the し K. , for sigmng on. Jin Liqun, the b ank 's Chi- nese president, tOld the F ⅲ 4 れ襯 , "China needs t0 d0 something that can help it be recog- nized as a responsible leader. signs 0f China's growing role as a champion of globalization kept coming. The following day, on January 24 , the prime minister 0f Malay- sia urged a speedy conclusion tO the Regional Comprehensive Economic Partnership (RCEP), China s own Pacific trade initiative involving 16 countrie s in the Asia-Pacific , which China promse S Will bOOSt e conomic integration in the region. TWO days later, the deputy prime mmis- ter ofThailand voiced a similar sense ofurgency. The prospective member countnes, which repre- sent 29 percent 0f global trade, are scheduled t0 meet in February in Japan tO conclude the pact. The battle between China and the U. S. for leadership in the Asia-Pacific re gion , the world's most dynamic of area econom1C growth, shifted remark- ably in just those few days, leaving America s regional allie s—nota- bly Japan, Australia and S outh Kore a—uncertain about what the changing balance 0f power and influence Will mean for their own futures. Until now, along with Taiwan and Vietnam, these three key U. S. allies have enjoyed the secu- rity guarante e Of Amer- 1Ca S military presence and the political reassur- ance 0f Obama's early decision to focus し S. foreign and trade pol- icy on the region. Along with that came the prosp ect 0f the world's THREE DAYS BEFORE Donald Trump t00k the oath 0f 0ffce and became the 45th president 0f the United States, Chinese Pres- ident Xi Jinping stOOd on the mmn stage at the World Economic Forum s annual meeting in the Swiss mountain resort Of Davos and alluded tO Charles Dickens. lt was, Xi told the gathering of the global business and policy elite,"the best Of times and the worst Of times. ” The Chinese president then delivered an uncompromislng defense ofglobalization, despite acknowledging its flaws. lt had, he said,"powered global growth and facilitated movement 0f goods and capital, advance S in SC1ence, technology and CiViliz ation, and interactions among people. Five days later, Trump made it as clear as possible that he did not share xi's enthusi- asm for international free trade deals. On Jan- uary 23 , the new president signed an order tO withdraw from the Trans-Pacific Partnership, the hard-won trade deal negotiated under President Barack Obama. The TPP would have created a trade pact with 12 countries, including Japan, Peru and Vietnam, that together would have represented 40 percent 0f the g10bal economy. The deal deliberately excluded China, and many in Washington saw it as a way ofcontaining Chi- na S regional dominance. ln Beijing, Xi will likely have reacted t0 Trump s move tO withdraw from the TPP with mixed feelings. On the one hand, the decision delivered a significant blow to the era 0f free trade; but Xi would no doubt have celebrated the demise 0f a deal designed in part to hem in Chi- na s vast engine oftrade. As the U. S. was backing away from a mapr international agreement, China continued its ÅI ト 3979d38W001 28 N E W 5 W E E K 0 2 / 10 / 2 017