E E K E N D C IJ L T IJ R E ′ T R A V E L A N D 0 T H E R G 0 0 D N E W S L CE TO Cape WineIands, South Africa Harvest time marks a moment for change N E W S W E E K 54 M A R C H 2 4 , 2 017

十 A NEW LEAF: By March, vineyards like this in StelIenbosch are ready t0 harvest. HO NEEDS a marketing campalgn when your brand has Jane Austen on its side? The novelist never had the chance tO take a leisurely brunch on the terraces at GrOOt Constantia, the Oldest Wlne -producing estate in south Africa. But Austen knew GrOOt Constantia S untages and help ed boost their fame. The estate sits on the eastern flank Of TabIe Mountam, its KeIIy green vmeyards sloping down 仕 om a white Dutch Renaissance manor house toward the distant haze of the lndian Ocean. First planted ⅲ 1685 by Simon van der Stel, Dutch governor Ofthe Cape, the estate of"Great Constance ” had, by the 1810S , picked up celebrity fans that included Nap01eon and Frederick the Great 0f prussia. ln S 4 れ d 浦り , Mrs. Jennings brings out "some 0f the finest 01d Constant1a W1ne tO solace the love sick Dashwood sisters. Elinor, as she downs her therapeutic glass, appreciates 'fits healing powers on a disappointed heart. ln the lush green band ofthe Constantia Valley, and further east near Stellenbosch, PaarI and Franschhoek, late February and March mean harvest. AII over the Cape Winelands, festivals lnvlte guests tO sip stomp grapes listen tO music and picnic among recently stnpped V1nes. Forvisitors mterested ⅲ history, some estates address the legacy of racial injustice that shadows these sunnyvalleys. Tour the house at Gr00t constantla, now a national museum, and you'll learn about the slaves wh0 once tended the vines. Today, only 2 percent of the wine industry (worth $ 2.8 billion tO south Africa's economy) is under nonwhite ownership. But outside Stellenbosch, things are, ever SO SlOWly, starting tO change ・ The Seven Sisters Farm—owne d by the Brutus sisters, whO are Of mixe d heritage—cultivates wines that count American Airlines and Wal-Mart among customerseAcre by acre , pioneer ikethese women -. are sweetening bitter heritage. Austen's dauntless heroines would surely li 代 a glass 0f"01d Constantia ” tO them. —BOYD TONKIN ロ 担み第 31VIS3 NIM YOIMUVM 0 To visit Groot Constantia and Seven Siste 「 s, see GROOTCONSTANTIA.COZA and SEVENSISTERS. CO. ZA 0 0 0 55 M A R C H 2 4. 2017 N E W S W E E K

Newsweek こミ三宀を MAR c H 2 4 , 2 0 17 / V0 L . 16 8 / N 0 . 11 ー N T E R N A T ー 0 N A L 十 FOAM HOME: A man covers hiS face to avoid the smells coming from the Yamuna River, DeIhi's most vital water source and lndia's most polluted waterway. Mexico ℃ limate of Terror' N E W W 〇 R L D Pneumonia YoungLungSprung Energy ThisIs Getting Old 48 SIeep Pillow Power 50 Cyberwarfare Shock and 3-D Awe Bacteria Super-Bugging Out 44 46 52 D E P A R T M E N T S W E E K E N D 54 The PIace to Be Cape Winelands, South Africa ー nterview 」 ulian Opie 60 Books Designs That Matter; Mohsin Hamid Screening Room, Radar Personal Shopper; 」 amiroquai 4 Parting ShOt Boxing, Beijing F E A T IJ R E S The New AIamo 田 G S H 〇 T S 22 56 The fight over immigration is about to get ugly, and Texas is where the bodies will start falling. 切 70 訪立 34 Something ⅲ the Air As New DeIhi overtakes Beijing as the most polluted city on earth, its citizens are ghting to breathe. ー切なの tor 0 ーアん 0 ね 2 ん切 / “ん , た“ん Seou れ South Korea Spraylt, Don't SayIt MosuI, lraq Running From 旧旧 London Last Exit Before 10 New York Showing Her Metal 4 6 8 62 一工 38 3 一 8V 工 0V7 COVER CREDIT: ILLUSTRATION BY RED LINE Newsweek 0SSN2052-1081 ) , is published weekly except one week in 」 anuary, 」 u ツ , August and October. Newsweek (EMEA) is published by Newsweek Ltd (part of the 旧 T Media Group Ltd), 25 Canada Square, Canary Wharf, London E14 5LQ, UK. printed by Quad/Graphics Europe Sp z 0.0.. Wyszkow, poland FO 「 Article Reprints, Permissions and Licensing www.IBTreprints.com/Newsweek 12 PoIitics The Latte Party FOR MORE HEADLINES, GO TO NEWSWEEK ℃ OM 1 N E W S W E E K M A R C H 2 4 , 2 017

BIG SI-I()TS U SA Oi ト Shafted? Washington, D. C. ー Activists erected tee- pees near the Wash- ington Monument on March 8 to protest the $ 3.8 billion Dakota Access Pipeline. That same day, a federal judge declined t0 tem- porarily halt the final phase ofconstruction. The decision came a month after the Trump White House cleared the way for the pipeline's comple- tion, reversing a de- cision by the Obama administration. The 0 ⅱ could begin flow- ing this month. ーを三、にを ミ V N V OY S 3 S 0 「 JOSE LUIS MAGANA

N E W W 0 R L D / E N E R G Y DISRUPTIVE THIS GETTING 0 し 0 John Goodenough proves yet again that genius doesn't have an expiration date A MAN OLD enough tO be Mark Zuckerberg's great-grandfather just unveiled energy storage technology that might save the planet. J0hn G00denough is 94 , and his current work could be the key to Tesla's future—much as, decades ago, his efforts were an important part Of sony's dominance ⅲ portable gadgets. Over the years, G00denough has scuffed with Warren Buf- fett, gotten screwed by global patent wars, never be came rich 0 代 a headline-grabbing initial public offenng and defied the American tech industry's prejudice that says 01d people can't innovate. Contrast that with the way we celebrate Evan Spiegel, wh0 at 26 is worth $ 5 billion because he co-created Snapchat, an app that will probably lmpact humanity as profoundly as Cap n Crunch cereal. Maybe. G00denough announced in early March that he and his team at the University ofTexas at Aus- tin had invented a glass-based battery that blows away the performance 0f every previous kind 0f battery, including lithium-ion batterie s—which were invented in the 1980S by... him. G00de- nough's technology is powering your smartphone , laptop, electric toothbrush and Te sla , among other things. LOts Of inventors claim they're working on breakthrough batteries. G00denough fire, so a hoverboard won t melt your kid's Vans is the only one who has done it before. as she scoots across the playground). The IEEE alSO reports that Goodenough's battenes seem HiS new battery can store three tlmes more energy than a comparable lithium-ion battety, able tO soak up in minutes as much charge as a lithium-ion battery gets in hours. according t0 the lnstitute Of Ele ctrical and Elec- BY tronic Engineers. The new battery alSO SOlves Battery technology may not make you swoon, some Other lithium-ion trouble s ()t won t catch but it is the missing link in getting the planet 0 代 当 @kmaney 1 KEVIN MANEY NEWSWEEK 46 MARCH 24 , 2017

つ . gov/care RD を第イ STAND AT DETENTION: Bo 記 e 「 PatroI agents detain two CentraI American women and their children in Texas. Trump hopes to greatly expand the number Of agents working along the border, but doing SO will be costly. who was born in CoIombia and came to the し S. without documents when she was 12 , walks in at 9 a. m. and immediately starts herding members and organizers ontO a yellOW schOOl bus. Once the bus is onthe road, she has time to talk. lmmigrants feel attacked in a way we haven't before, ” she says. Aristizabal, who was able to Obtain a green card and her U. S. citizenship, uses the Spanish words 襯〃 d れ 0 to describe the heightened rhetoric used by those calling for increased enforcement and deportations. (One woman on the bus, wary of who might be watching, signe d her name on the sign- in she et as "Julia X. ") "The protest is to highlight this war that people are fighting. As the bus passes Yankee Stadium in the Bronx, Aristizabal walks up and down the bounc- lng _a1S e tO ma esure eve ryone has number andÄccess COde for a conference call that will explain the DHS memos, released two days e arlier. Listening inte ntly are ride rs on this and Other Make the Road buses and vans driv- ing t0 the protest from Brooklyn, Staten lsland and Long lsland. "There's also language about prosecuting people whO have quote-unquote have to bury indivlduals because we never could get any of the consulates in Houston and beyond t0 help identify. Leaning on his truck tailgate after his time on the shooting range, Louderback lays out his support for strict enforcement, like the detention ofundocumented immigrants swept up when ICE targets an undocumented criminal (known as "collaterals' ) and the deportation ofundocumented parents. He is especially scornful of sheriffs who ignore federal detainers. "we have some in law enforcement dOing that, encouragmg and promot- ing lawlessness. CRIMINALIZING PARENTING THE QU をを NS OFFICE sofimmigrantrights groupMaketheRoa New York were thrumming on a rece nt morning. The waiting room was packed with members ready to ride a bus to Elizabeth, New Jersey, to protest outside an ICE detention center, 4 large classroom was 血Ⅱ with two dozen adults learning English, and the back room held small children eating bagels. Natalia Aris- tizabal, a lead organizer with a faded stripe ofgreen ⅲ her hair NEWSWEEK 27 M A R C H 2 4 , 2 017

proud Ofits indigenous people in museums, says reg10n iS a maJOr heroin and produc- Astrid Puentes, whO is with the lnteramencan tion area for the Sinaloa cartel. The expansion Of Association for Environmental Defense (AIDA). powerful cartels has brought traffckers intO more "But they don't care at all about their real,living close contact with local indigenous groups, and indigenous communitie S. all t00 Often the result is violence. According tO Luna and his fellow Yaqtus sued the state gov- Gonzålez, Ramos had just returned 仕 om a meet- ing with state and federal authoritie s tO discuss ernment, but despite a Supreme Court decision ln security and other matters before he was killed. their favor ⅲ 2013 , the aqueduct continued pump- There's a dangerous cocktail 0f powerfulland- ingwaterto Hermosillo. Luna and Other members owners, ca 05 [cartel hit men] and loggers," she 0f the tribe organized protests, but in September 2014 he was arrested and taken tO prison. "Like says. lt's created a climate ofterror. some kind ofsuper-terronst," says Luna. The de aths of Ramos and Baldenegro came as a ShOCk tO many enuronmentalists in Mexico, A year later, the charges were thrown out and Luna was released, but by then the damage was particularly indigenous le aders facing their own battles. "lt's a deadly message to all defenders of done: The time and energy it tOOk tO free him enuronmental rights, ” says MariO Luna, a leader hampered efforts tO protect the river, and the ofthe Yaqui tribe in the northern state 0f Sonora. aqueduct is still operating. The impact on the Luna has been fighting the state government for tribe, says Luna, has been devastating. After years over control 0f the Yaqt11 River, which has years Of water exploitation, many Of the trib- sustained his tribe for centuries. ln 2010 , authori- utaries that sustained Yaqui commumtles are STYX AND STONES: ties began bullding an aqueduct t0 divert millions drying up. He says up t0 12 , 000 acres 0f agricul- After SO many ofliters ofwater from the river tO the state capital tural land are now unusable. The effect on the years Of violence and intimidation, tribe's spiritual practices, which revolve around ofHermosi110. According t0 Luna, he and his tribe the future of Mex- the river, has been equally destructive. They've were not even consulte d—a C01 れ mon problem, iCO'S forests—and killed the Yaqui River," Luna says. Now they're analysts say, for indigenous groups. MexiCO IS the activists trying tO protect them— remains uncertain. 十 棄第第のを、二畿 一を←物二 N E W S W E E K 20 M A R C H 2 4 , 2 017

P A G E 0 N E / M E X I C 0 'CLIMATE 0 ド TERROR' The unsolved killing of a Mexican envmronmentalist has le れ many activists frustrated— and afraid they could be next "I'M IN shock," says José Trinidad Baldenegro. uary, Mex1co's Center for Environmental R1ghts "ln despair. (CEMDA) released a report that documented 63 On the phone from the city of Chihuahua attacks against envlronmental activists ln 2015 in MexiCO s arid north, he's telling me about and 2016. However, this only included cases his older brother, lsidro Baldenegro Lopez, an reported on by the media or 0ther NGOS, SO the activist and leader Of the indigenous Tarahu- number could be much higher. mara people. For years, Baldenegro had endured The high rate of human rights abuses in Mex- numerous threats as a result Ofhis work protect- iCO has drawn lncreasmg international attention: ing the country s ancient forests from illegal Baldenegro was killed while し N. Special Rap- logging. But one stormy afternoon in January, porteur Michel Frost was in MexiCO lnvestigat- standing by a goat pen outside his uncle's house mg attacks against activists. Still, the renewed in the village ofColoradas de la Virgen, Baldene- global focus on the activists' plight doesn't mean gro was shOt six times in the chest, stomach and the violence has waned. Baldenegro had been legs. He died a few hours later. awarded the prestigious Goldman Environmen- His killing fits a deadly pattern across the tal Prize in 2005 for his campaign to protect region: Latin America IS now the most dangerous Mexico s ancient forests from illegal logging— the same work that led to his father's murder place in the world for envlronmental activists, according t0 a 2016 report by Article 19 , a British 30 years ago. His death came less than a year human rights group. More than 122 activists were after the shoothing death of Honduran activ- killed in the region in 2015 , one of the deadliest ist Berta Cåceres, whO received the Goldman prize in 2015. 'lt used tO be that when you got tO years on record, according tO the 1 れ OSt recent study from G10baIWitness, another nongovern- that level Of awareness about your work, it gave mental organization. you some measure Of protection, says ArtiCle 19 ' s David Banisar. NOW even that seems tO be MeXICO has emerged as one Of the most per- ilous countries in the region. Organized crime, undermined. lt's a good indication that things state-sanctioned intimidation and near-total are getting worse. impunity have proved t0 be a hazardous and 0ften The Mexican government has promised a 血Ⅱ BY investigation of Balde negro's killing. On March deadly combin ation for the many actiusts trying OSCAR LOPEZ tO protect the country 's natural re sources. ln Jan- 8 , authorities arrested Romeo RubiO Martfnez, 21 , 当 @oscarlopezgib NEWSWEEK 18 MARCH 24 , 2017

N E W W 0 R L D / C Y B E R WA R F A R E SHOCK AND 3-0 AWE A virtual battleship is helping the Pentagon make war better and che 叩 er LATE LAST August, just 50 miles south ofWash- ington, D. C. , a series 0f explosions rocked the normally placid P0tomac R1ver. The blasts came from artillery belonging to the USS Dahl- gren, which was testing a new targeting system. Using a drone tO observe its marks, the targeting system automatically recalculated its alm and retraine d the D ahlgren's gunne rs. The following volley hit, cle arly demonstrating the value of the targeting system. But perhaps more impressive was the USS Dahlgren itself, which, despite its name, isn t a Ship. The Navy sometimes refers to the USS DahI- gren as a "virtual ship," but it would more accu- rately be described as a cybernetic laboratory, a network ofhardware and software distributed across Naval Warfare Centers from Rhode lsland tO Florida that can mimic the capabilities of a re al vessel. Vehicles, weapons, computers, test ranges, crews—the USS Dahlgren has access t0 all ofthese assets and more, on-Slte at its headquarters at the Naval Surface Warfare Center DahIgren Division (NSWCDD) in Dahlgren, Virginia; on loan from other Warfare Centers; or online by way of net- working or simulation. The USS Dahlgren is thus able tO expenment With new weapons, sensors, control systems and Other eqmpment in an envl- ronment that resembles the conditions aboard a battleship but without running the 血Ⅱ costs or risks oftesting at sea ・ The general term the Navy uses for an aircraft camer at sea is million dollars a day,"' says NeiI Baron, a distingmshe d scientist and e ngineer for combat control at NSWCDD. "You've got 5 , 000 people. You've got four and a half acres 0f sover- eign U. S. territory. You ve got t0 pay for fuel and for food … . lt's very expensive to have a ship at sea, especially if it's just doing te sting ・ ln contrast, the USS Dahlgren's targeting sys- tem demonstrafion ⅲ August cost only $ 400 , 000 and involved four vessels and three aircraft— although a maJ0rity of those vehicles were sim- ulated. The three large ships (a cnuser, a littoral combat ship and an aircraft carrier) were virtually represented on the Potomac River Test Range, helmed by three bases at NSWCDD and armed with artillery (5-inch and 30 -millimeter guns) set on the range S waterfront. TWO aircraft and their HeIIfire missiles were simulated with the aid of the Navair RoadHawk, a tractor-trailer housing an auomcs sulte identical tO that Of MH-60S or MH-60R helicopters. The only genume vehicles were the two drones observing the marks, one by air and one by sea. Cost-effectiveness has been at the core ofthe USS Dahlgren smce its inception five years ago ・ AII of the vehicles, weapons, computers and Other assets it utilizes were purchased by the Navy for other purposes. "lt's all been paid for, says Nelson Mills, capabilities development lead at NSWCDD, of the Dahlgren's assets. "lt was Just that nobody's ever connected the dOts like we've been doing here. Those dots were connected by installing fiber-optic cables between Navy research labora- tones and the Potomac River Test Range, which BY ARVIND DILAWAR N E W S W E E K 50 M A R C H 2 4 , 2017

十 HIDE AND SEEK: More than a decade ago, ArevaIo fled 日 SaIva- dO 「 and now lives ⅲ Houston. Since Trump's election, she and Other undocumented immigrants have been living in greater fear of deportation. There are 6 million people spread throughout Houston and its sprawling suburbs dotte d with dollar stores and taco trucks, shiny Offce tow- oilnoneyvfancy market-pnce cold brew and parking lots brim- ming with BMWS. AISO living and working in the county are almost 400 , 000 undocumented lmmigrants, according tO the Migration policy lnstitute. Head south on Route 59—the border is 350 miles away—and the city qmckly gives way t0 open fields, roadside stands selling pecans and honey, and gas stations that will process your hog or whitetail deer int0 Jerky for $ 50. There are few good estimates for the number of undocu- mented immigrants in the rural Texas countles between Houston and the border, but the pre- vailing sentiment there is that stricter enforce- ment and mass deportafions would be good for the region and for the United States. I was in the masonry business for 12 years, and they made it pretty hard for me t0 make money, Justin pack, a WI 巧ー road worker in a Batman T-shirt, says about undocumented immigrants. Leaning on a white truck on a stretch ofhighway where motor- ists Often spit chewing tobacco in the gas station brightly when she reveals she has a small crush on their star defensive end . Watt. But since Trump was elected in November, she lives ln con- stant fear ofthat knock on her door. She knows U. S. lmmigration and Customs Enforcement [ICE] has her name fromwhen she was picked up at the border, and she assumes she has a deportatlon order because she didn't appear at lmmigratlon court over a decade ago ・ Areva10 s mamage pro- vide s no protectlon—undocumented lmmigrants don t magically become legal when they marry a し S. citizen. And so she lives in the shadows as much as possible. She shops online, uses Uber when she has to deliver food to white neighborhoods and never opens her blinds at home SO She can 1 れ ore easily hide if immlgra- tion agents come looking for her. The day before we spoke, she was scroll- ing through Faceb00k when she saw a news story about the deportation Of an undocumented El Sal- vadoran man whO had lived in Houston for 16 years. He came here when he was 15 or 16 , " she says. lt's almost my case. His deportation scared her so much that she newously ate a large bagofspicyCheetos thatday. "l'mhopeful thatthis is abad moment we are going through and the president ⅷⅡ open his eyes and see thatwe are notcriminals, ” she says, lookmg down atthe Coachpurse she bought at an outletmall. "I would say, 'Mr. Trump, myname is nmi. l'm not a criminal. l'mjust ayoungwomanwho's looking for an opportunity. traffickers THE WAR STARTS HERE AREVALO AND 11 million like her are at the center Ofa long-run- ning fight that is sparking regular protests and threatening t0 go nuclear in the early days 0f the Trump presidency. Leading one Side Of the war are organizations advocating for undocu- mented immigrants and even teaching tactics to avoid and sub- vert immigration laws. They want people like Arevalo tO live in the U. S. with no real legal distinction between them and Amer- IC an clt1zens.Æe ading theother Slde are thepre SIde nt many politiciansmld sheriffsinnexas,andorganizationspushingfo tighter enforcement and millions ofdeportations. B0th forces are powerful, and both are using political strat- e les and street-level tactics tO ush their a enda. Texas is a major battlefield in the fight, thanks to its southern border, its politics and the ingrown independence and irascibility of the people wh0 live there. 十 LONG ARM OF THE LAWLESS: 」 ackson County Sheriff Louderback says the police must follow the laws as written when it comes to the border and illegalimmigration. N E W S W E E K 25 M A R C H 2 4 , 2 017