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1. SOUTH BILLWEEMS

The Workplace 召 00 , No ん C 0 Nf 勧 Co 襯襯り page: イれ襯例 , C 0 瓰 Opposite 襯 0 れ , Pa 襯〃 co 沢んグ No ん Pages 46 / 47 : E ん engaged a large majority ofthe people. agriculture and related occupations they used t0 be, back in the days when query are much 1 蝨 ore varied now than What do they do? The answers to the last are your people? Where are they 仕 om ? ingly familiar: What is your name? Who tions a native puts tO a stranger are tell- rural areas and small towns. The ques- people most clearly, especially in the that describes and defines Southern genealogy and the geography—it is work After name and address—the society on the land. it took—and still takes—to make a these old hands that reveal the labor appearance, a modern character, it iS Now, as the South takes on a different South, explored it, farmed it, built it. They are the hands that found the hug, as expressive as an honest face. as a clenched fist, as SOft as a consoling working people. They can be as solid These are the hands of hard- like chapters ofan autobiography. on display to be read like an open book, creases oflengthening üme—all are there bat with tools and machines, the folds and long experience, 山 e 」 agged scars 0f com- and strength The nimble adroitness 0f dirt beneath the nails, they bespeak power thick, whether neatly mamcured or with Whether long and sinewy or short and shades ofebony and pecan and peach. work gloves. They range in color through but also supple, like good leather sun, they show themselves to be tough ered by wind and water, by earth and Their hands tell the story. Weath- What Southerners do today is very much the same as what Americans else- where do. The work is as much cerebral as it IS manual, as much on paper, C01 - puter screens, or television monitors as it is outdoors on the land, SO the hands no longer tell the story as they once did. But in the long evolution 0fSouthern labor 仕 om the prehistoric fishing, hunt- ing, and farming skills 0f the lndians to the futuristic marvel of high tech- nology that now iS becoming a routine fixture in the workplace, there always has been a certain style or quality or character, a certain attitude, that seems to typify the way people in the regl()n go about their business. ltmight be an over- statement tO say there is such a thing as a distinct and definable Southern work ethic, but there are certainly habits and practices that working people in this cor- ner ofthe country have followed for a very long time. From the beginning, the work itself was arduous, back-breaking, and inter- minable. Clearing the land and farming it, building the towns and cities, raising the children, feeding and caring for the 49

2. SOUTH BILLWEEMS

The People tured the people in clear-cut terms Of white and black. lndeed, Ang10-Saxons and Afi 、 o-Americans dO comprise the tWO largest segments Of the population, as they always have, but there are other nationalities and ethnic 部、 oups whose presence has been clearly visible and whose influence is still lt. The imprint ofthe Spanish in Florida and the French in Louisiana is primary and indelible. The German heritage ⅲ North Carolina and Kentucky has been substantial, too, and the same can be said ofthe ltalians and Greeks in several ofthe Southern states. East Europeans have been less numerous, but they still have made Who are the Southerners? RomantlC novels and m()VleS and television have projected a long line 0f stereotyped images in answer tO the question. Out Of the antebellum era came goateed plantation colonels, fluttering ladies in crinolines, and happy slaves sing- ing in the cotton fields. ln modern times, a different but no less banal and artificial cast ofcharacters has been featured: dim- witted hillbillies and mountaineers, red- neck sheriffs, sweet-vo iced b eauty queens, and tobacco-chewing good old boys. Reality brings a much broader and deeper array of people into focus—not distorted, one-dimensl()nal caricatures, but a congeries of humanity T0day's Southerners range across the spectrum Of age, race, residence, occupation, and lncome. They are men and women, native- born and adopted, whO sometimes seem as different fi 、 0n1 one another as they are unlike people elsewhere—and yet, at the same time, many ofthem have in com- mon certain manners and habits, certam ways ofspeaking, and certain traits 0f personality that mark them unmistakably as Southerners. lt is both their differences and their similarities that make them interesting. The people of the South often stand apart 仕 om their Ⅱ ow Americans— more markedly, perhaps, than do North- erners or Easterners or Westerners. For better and worse, through generations Of fabricated images and stark realities, Southerners somehow have managed tO preserve remnants Oftheir reglonal iden- tity as individuals and as a people, ⅲ spite ofthe gradual emergence ofa look-alike culture across the nation as a whole. Within the region, the simple fact of diversity is a myth-shattering surprise tO many non-Southerners whO have pic- 24 衵 Pages 66 / 67 : D 尾、 C ん矼 / 召豆 0 れ , 、 So 襯ん C 0 / わ乢 Opposite page: ん”雇ハイの・な 〃 g ん , 初プん C 〃川 / わ乢 This page: 4 / いマ “んな化沢イ Race, 69

3. SOUTH BILLWEEMS

Shore, North Carolina's Outer Banks, South CaroIina's Low Country, Georgia's Sea lslands, Florida's Keys and Panhandle, the coastal strips of Alabama and Mississippi, and the bayous ofLouisiana. These natural features were pre- sent when the first Europeans arrived, the South was acquiring countless inter- nal appellations—names for its states, its communities, itS natural features, and itS institutions—it was alSO bonding its character and personality tO the land and sea, tO the mountains and plains, tO the rivers and streams, and t() the seasons. The physical endowments that nat- ure bestowed upon the South were rich beyond counting, SO rich that the com- mon reaction Of the pathfmders tO what they found here could only have been amazement. WhO among then ・ 1 could have anticipated virgin forests as vast as these, or mountain ranges as long and rugged as the Appalachians, or lowland swamps as large as the Florida Everglades, or rivers as n ・ lighty as the Mississippi? Who could have guessed how varied and plenteous the edible flora and fauna would be—the animals and birds and fishes, the fi 、 uits and nuts and berries, the wild vegetables and the ones that soon would be cultivated? Who would have believed how hot and sultry the summers could be in the lower South, or how pleas- antly mild the winters? Magnitude and quantity character- ized the natural blessings of the region. The 甼℃ at rivers included notjust the Mississippi and the Ohi0 but the Arkansas, the Tennessee, theJames, the Savannah, the St Johns, and many others. ln addition to the Appalachian Mountains, there were also the Smokies, the Blue Ridge, the Alleghenies, the Cumberlands, and the Ozarks. Besides the Everglades, there were such lowland features as Georgia S Okefenokee Swamp, Louisiana's Atchafalaya Basin, and the sprawling delta flatlands ofMississippi and Arkansas. Along the Atlantic and Gulf coasts there were subregions that StOOd ()ut one from another.• Virginia's Eastern and they have remained in place as per- manent beauty marks, 、 Jewels in the Southern crown. Things do change, of C()urse—citles rlse up along waterfronts and at crossroadjunctions, people mi- 部に in and out, technology continually transforms the systems Of commumca- tion and transportation and alters the ways people live and work. But in spite Of urban and industrial growth and all the Other contemporary mani- festations Of change, the South is more clearly defmed by its natural assets than by man-made ones; even in itS cities a hint Of the country remains. The rural and agricultural patterns 0f life may inevitably give way to the pace and sophistication Of the modern world, but the call of the outdoors still echoes, and the most powerful refrains in the siren song Of the senses are alSO the most familiar and traditional.

4. SOUTH BILLWEEMS

ln the South, the sights and sounds that trigger recollection and the sensa- tions Of smell and taste and touch that stir the memory are deeply rooted in the land and in nature. A sunrise in the Smokies, a sunset on the Gulf, a full moon over the Atlantic—these are dramatic images that never lose their power t0 inspire. The hushed whisper of the wind in the pines, the symphony of birdsong at daybreak, the soothing rush and tinkle ofa cold mountain stream—these are sounds that no Southern nature lover ever tlres ()f hearing. The heady fragrance of orange blossoms, thejuicy sweetness of a ripe peach, the gentle softness of beach sand sifting through the fingers—these are sensuous pleasures that no amount Of repetition can dull. Out of the hard red clay of the hill country, the sandy loam of the coastal lowlands, and the rich black alluvial soil of the deltas, generations of Southern- ers have harvested abundant quantities 0f seasonal produce—spring asparagus and strawberries and bibb lettuce, sum- mer sweet corn and field peas and tomatoes, fall apples and peanuts and pecans, winter citrus and turnip greens and collards. For beauty and fragrance, there is a perpetual showcase of blos- soms that seem almost synonymous with the South: dogwoods and azaleas, camellias and magnolias, wisteria and crepe myrtle, and rhododendron and mountain laurel. The anclent sentinels are gone from the forests, but younger stands of hardwoods and evergr ℃ ens have rlsen in their place, dense enough in S01 蝨 e bosky precincts tO blOt out the summer sun. The diverse plenitude Of hickory and ash and oak, maple and poplar and gum, locust and beech, and countless others fllls the autumn woods with fiery blazes of color. NO one can decipher the mystical rhythms of the calendar; like ocean cur- rents, the seasons move according tO their own unseen clock, bringing with them flood and drought, fire and ice, hurricanes, tornadoes, and heat waves. Against such power there is no defense, only grudging compliance. Southern stewards of the land know the futility Of resistance; they can only wait on the weather, bending with its winds or bow- ing tO its soaking rains and scorching sunshine—understanding all the while that only time can balance the ever- turning wheel Of deliverance. And the land remains, always the land. lnstitutions rise and fall, people come and go, the weather constantly changes, but the land holds on. lt is the literal and figurative ground of South- ern life, the bedrock of Southern being. Some unthinking tenants may assault it with blight and pollution—contaminate its soils, burn its forests, stain its healing waters with refuse, fill the air above it with noxlous poisons—but the land survives. lt was here before the ancestors of Tecumseh and Sequoyah arrived, and from every indication, it will be present still when the human parade has run ltS course. 、リ A 切 C の 0 防乢 厖〃市れ g 矼 Deals Ga. カ , Opposite page: C ん 初 C の祝わ乢 G 川れ砌ん M 襯〃氿 This page : ん 0 〃市 0 れ , 1

5. SOUTH BILLWEEMS

important contributions tO Southern cul- ture, as have Mexicans; and even Chinese have lived in the Mississippi Delta for more than a hundred years. ln recent times, the influx ofHispanics 仕 om Cen- tral and South America and refugees fi 、 om Southeast Asia has further broadened the South's ethnic divensity. ln the realm ofreligion, a similar pattern can be found. From colonial times tO the present, it has been notjust Protestants but Catholics andJews as well who have worshipped here. Even among the Protestants, the m 可 or denom- inations were complemented early and Often by such historic religl()us commum- ties as the Moravians, the Quakers and the Shakers, the Amish and the Mennonites. Beyond ethnic and religious diver- sity, the South has shown a curious acceptance Of one particular kind Of social diversity—namely, a general accommodation Of eccentric characters. For reasons that have never been clear, eccentricity has always seemed tO thrive in the region, particularly in the arena Of politics and Other spectator sports. The fact that diversity did not breed tolerance IS one Of the iromc tWlStS Of Southern history; intolerance—racial, ethnic, religious, and social—was deeply ingrained in the regl()n until the upheav als of the mid-twentieth century took place, and manifestations Ofthe Old reac- tion still surface occasionally. But the traits of character that per- sist in Southern culture, giving the regl()n and its people their distinctive- ness, are essentially positive. The bonds ofkinship and friendship, of custom and tradition and ritual, are not con- fined within racial or religious or SOCial boundaries. Southerners Of every description show deep feeling for the unifying occasions Of SOCial exchange, be they barbecues, fish fries, and din- ners on the ground, or weddings, funerals, and homecomings on the land. ln their heart Of hearts, Southerners are SOCial beings; their energizing source Of power iS talk, expression, and verbal exchange. Until architecture changed after World War Ⅱ and the magnets Of air conditioning and televi- sion drew people off the porches and intO the parlors, families spent many a summer evening talking in the dark. News, gossip, history, humor, fiction, and even poetry were on the agenda, and music occasionally spiced the fare. There was porch talk in the summer, hearth talk in the winter, and table talk and pillow talk anytime; little wonder, then, that SO many Southerners are skilled listeners, renowned talkers, even gifted writers. This page: Nav 襯んれ夜 New 0 れをカ 0 れⅳの ta. Opposite page: D ん んの滬 0 れ D Queen 70

6. SOUTH BILLWEEMS

Close to sixty million people now live in the eleven Southern states framed by Virgmia and Kentucky on the north and by Arkansas and Louisiana on the west. Until the end ofWorld War Ⅱ , when the population was only halfas large as it is now, a substantial majority ofthe people lived in small towns or in the countryside. NO cities Ofa million residents existed in the regl()n, and only one or tWO were even halfthat Iarge.T0day, Atlanta leads five Southern metropolises in the million-plus class, and about twenty cities in the reglOn have a half-million or more residents. Fully one-fourth ofthe hundred largest cities in the nauon are in the eles ℃ n Southern states. lnjust a little more than a genera- tion, the South has been converted 仕 01 a rural tO a predominantly urban culture, and urbanization has made the region seem 1 れ ore uniform, more like the rest Of the country. But the cities still retain some vestiges Ofa recognizable Southern char- acter, and they 記 so differ significantly one 仕 01 another. Mere menüon ofabout three dozen underscores the POint. Age and geography account for much Of the variety.. The ocean cities have been here the longest, Of course—・ St. Augustine (the oldest), Savannah, Charleston, Wilmington, Norfolk—and they have about them a 100k and feel of イ・・ . をま 3 イ 4 ageless grace. Pensacola and M0bile reflect the same charm in their outward facing toward the Gulf of Mexico. The younger cities 0f Tampa and St. Peters- burg on the west coast 0fFlorida, along withJacksonville on the east, also 100k tO the sea. New OrIeans gets much of its per- sonality 什 om its status as bOth a seaport and a river city.. lnland, the river ports of Baton Rouge and Memphis on the Mississippi, Louisville on the Ohio, Nashville on the Cumberland, and Richmond on theJames all can trace long histories of growth up 仕 om the waterfront. Rivers are also important tO the geography and history 0fLittle Rock, Chattanooga, Knoxville, and Columbia, but other physical features—hills, moun- tains, and plains—seem somehow closer to their nature. Asheville and Roanoke are truly mountain cities, while several Others ・—Lexington and Birmingham, Greenville and Spartanburg, Greensboro and Winston-Salem—circle the moun- tain periphery. This page: wo Or れ P れ〃 0 れれ召〃 r Ⅳ〃襯 g れ , 初 C 0 / わ . Opposite page: Po 尾んか C んの / 0 れ , 立襯ん C の況わ 98

7. SOUTH BILLWEEMS

there is at once a subtle distinguishing quality that can be heard 斤 om one loca- tion tO another—and at the same time a general style and substance that marks the speakers as Southerners. Eventually, inevitably, the powerful currents Of contemporary culture may erase the most salient features Of region- alism ⅲ this diverse land—but if and when that happens, the South and its people may be the last t0 give up their claims tO distinction. Who are the Southerners? Whoever is self-consciously, self-confidently, self- evidently so; whoever claims the title and affirms the description; whoever bears the signs. With a feeling ofcomfort and a sense ofbelongmg, the people ofthe South return tlme and time agam tO their chO- sen land and to the familiar places ofli and work that ⅱⅡ their dreams and stir their memories. In ceremonial circles, they gather andjoin hands with those who never left, the sons and daughters whose stewardship ofthe land, ofthe homeplace, and ofthe workplace has been continuous. With all their human diversity and variety, they are nonetheless one, united by history and myth and the overpowermg presence Oftheir place earth. One and all, once and always, they are the Southerners. Opposite page: んわ〃 4 ハ / 勧の〃仏 72

8. SOUTH BILLWEEMS

Addresses change, and so do ways of living; old domestic habits must yield tO new neceSSlt1eS, preferences. There was a time not so long ago when families sat down together to eat two or three meals a day, but that is an anach- ronism no 、 V.. other activities rangmg 斤 om religlon and education to shopping and entertainment have been equally as affected, as Southern society moves to 01e threshold ofthe twenty-first century. StiII, in the homeplaces themselves, tradition IS as ever-present and visible as a member of the family, and contempo- rary living is accented by daily remem- brance of things past. Now, as always, signs of the real South, the good South, come shining through: human comedy and drama, words and music, 応 od and drink, manners rituals, friends, birth and marriage, death and burial. lt is in the homeplace, as much as anywhere else, that Southern history is told, remembered, preserved, and sometimes made. The land and the homeplace are extensions ()f ()ther, permanently and inseparably linked. ln the frame house, the mansron, the cabin, Southerners cling to myth and history, and sometimes the two seem virtually identical. The Southern homeplace—city, town, and country— is both a repository of the past and a seedbed of the future. The connection between the two was one ofWilliam FauIkner's central themes. 、、 ln the South', he once said, 'the past is never dead. lt's not even past: ()pposite page: C んカ燗 S 甲鷓 S 〃襯ん , Georgia. 100

9. SOUTH BILLWEEMS

Celebrating the South and its people, S 側 is a movmg portrayal of those things that make up this fascinating, eclectic part of the country. Whether you re from the North or are a South- ern son or daughter, you'll find this collection of photographs warming, stirring, and always memorable. Shot by the well ・ known Southern Ph0tographer BilI Weems, So ん brings the reader on an enthralling Southern adventure—from the thundering fast tracks ofChurchilI Downs to the dusty back roads of1Y Gleaming Atlanta is juxtaposed against fields blanketed in white cotton And through it all is an hon- est feeling ofthings Southern, a heritage felt and treasured by a colorful people who have always enjoyed the regional distinction Oftheir part Of the country.. lt's a11 here, as seen unerringly through the lenses ()fMr. Weems cameras. Bill Weems was born in Atlanta and although he moved to the Middle West when he was a child, he never forgot his Southern roots. He returned tO the Sou 山、 tll e and time again, effectively recapturmg its mag1C and its mysticism in hiS view finder. For those who live in the South, or once did, for those who've never visited, but would love to... S 側 is a celebration 0f a people and a land—romantic expressive, and dynamIC Relive the Southern experience or ex- plore it for the first time with Mr. Weems' compellingly beautiful photographs, each one telling a story … as only a Southerner can. C()ver shOt: 0 面砌 ~ P れ阨 0 れ , &. 乃•al な海 , ん側の .

10. SOUTH BILLWEEMS

、、 ln the North they telljokes',' said Robert Penn War1 ℃ n, who has gone from his non-urban Kentucky and Ten- nessee roots tO world fame as a poet and novelist, 、 'but in the South, at least in the South Of that pre-television time, they told tales—elaborate, winding, wan- dering creations that might never wear out, stories full ofhuman perception and subtlety, told with a richness of lan- guage and expressionl' lt was, said War- ren, 。 a regional difference'.' Talk in the porch age, he concluded, was "a South- ern gift that springs fi 、 om the pores of the society.. lt is easy tO trace the extension Of that gift ofwords from thelevel ofcasual conversatlon mt() ()ther dimensl()ns Of Southern Ⅲ 6. Out ofall proportion to their numbers, people who were raised in this region have gained prommence as novelists, poets, teachers, preachers, journalists, historians, lawyers,judges, politicians—and all ofthose professions require the same sort oflistening and talking skills that long evenings on the porch provided. Expression—verbal, written, and musical—is a Southern hallmark. If it is correct tO generalize about taciturn New Englanders or Western men offew words, itis equally ℃ ct to speak ofganulous Southerners. Fired with imagination, inspired by their own rhetoric and that of others, they are forever talking and singing, preaching and praying, crying and laughing. A gmadual flattening of regional accents has been taking place across the United States ( ) 、℃ r the past quarter- century or so. Television is probably the mam contributing factor, valuing as it does the sort Of neutral, standard, unac- cented speaking style that is easily understood in a11 regions Of the country.. Against this trend, Southern voices have shown flashes Of persistence. There are dozens Of distinctive subregional accents within the South; some Of them, particularly in rural areas, seem hardly to have changed at all over the ) ℃ ars. ln the Mississippi Delta, in the Cajun coun- try of Louisiana, in the Ozarks and the Appalachians, in the South Carolina Low Country, and along Virginia's East- ern Shore, the lyricalcadence of local speech reverberates with language that echoes a distant past. ln these rich voices of black and white Southerners,