FRUITS 525 Tangelos can range in size from that of a tiny orange to a small grapefruit. The skin can be rough tO smooth and range in C010r from yellow- orange tO deep orange. They are 」 uicy, swe et-tart and contain few seeds.The most C01 れ 1 on variety iS the Minne01a. Peak season is November through March. ・ Ugli Fruit: An exotic tangelo om Jamaica that combines the characteristics Of tangerines , grape ー fruits and Seville oranges. The fruit is large like a grapefruit and easy t0 peel like a tangerine. The flesh iS sweet and very juicy.. peak season occurs wmter to spring with limited availability. Select fruit that yields to gentle pressure and has a fra- grant aroma. Coconut: The fruit of the coconut palm has a thick, fibrous, brown, oval husk surrounding a thin, hard shell that encloses white flesh. The center is hollow and filled with coconut milk. AvaiIable ) ℃ ar-round. Select coconuts that are heavy for their size and sound んⅡ of liquid. Store at room temperature up to 6 months. When opened, store meat in refrigerator up to 4 days or freeze up tO 6 months. Coquito Nut: Nuts are the size and shape of marbles and resemble miniature smooth, brown coconuts. They have a hollow center with white flesh that is hard, crunchy and sweet like coconut. The nuts come 仔 om a Chilean palm that takes up to 50 years to produce and remams productive for hundreds of years. Available year-round. Store ln an airtight container in the refrig— erator up tO 2 weeks. Donut Peach: A peach that has rounded sides that pull into the center, creating the 100k of a doughnut. The sweet, juicy fruit has light yellow skin with a red blush and a white to pale orange flesh. Peak season IS mid- August. Select fruit free of brown spots. Store at room temperature until soft tO the touch , then refrigerate. F ⅶ 0 This small, egg-shaped fruit has a thin, slightly bumpy, lime green to olive green skin. Flesh has a granular texture With a creamy color.Taste IS a unique blend of pineapple, quince and lemon. New ZeaIand fruit is available 伝 om spring to early summer, and California fruit 伝 om fall to early winter. Ripen fruit at room temperature. lt is ready tO eat when it yields slightly to gentle pressure and has a sweet smell. Store in the refrigerator up to 5 days, and peel bitter skin before eating ・ Fig: Over six hundred varieties ofthis teardrop-shaped fruit exist. The peel can be purple, green or red, and the very sweet flesh ranges 佇 om creamy to purplish in C010r. Peak season is JuIy to August. Select firm fruit, and ripen at room temperature until flesh is soft. Horned Melon (Kiwano): The name is derived 丘 om the spikes that cover this ド 110W to orange melon. The bright lime green pulp is jellylike in texture with edible seeds that resemble those in a cucumber. The flavor IS a blend ofcucumber and lime. AvaiIabIe year-round. The melon is at its peak ripeness when it is golden orange. Refrigeration iS not necessary,. Kiwifruit: Egg-shaped fruit that has thin, fuzzy, brown skin. Flesh is emerald green and fine textured, has tiny edible black seeds and a flavor that resembles strawber- rles and melons. Available ) ℃ ar-round. Ripen at room temperature or in the refrigerator until flesh yields tO gentle pressure. Loquat: Originating in China, this pear-shaped fruit was introduced intO the United States as a Japanese plum. The fruit is the size of an apricot with yellowish orange skin. The creamy flesh is orange, juicy and ten- der with one or more inedible seeds. lt has a sweet and slightly acid flavor with a hint of cherries, plums and grapes. Peak season occurs sporadically during the spring months. R1pen at room temperature until flesh yields to gentle pressure. Lychee: Chinese evergreen trees produce this small fruit the size of a large grape that has a tough, reddish brown, bumpy peel. FIesh has a grapelike texture with a single black seed and a flavor resembling a melon. Fruit comes 佇 om trees up to forty feet tall that take up to 15 years to mature. Peak season is June and July. Store in refrigerator. Mango: Yellowish red, oblong fruit that has a thick rind. The golden flesh is juicy and tangy-sweet with a single large seed. Mangoes are the most consumed fruit in the world and have been cultivated for over 6,000 ) ℃ ars. Available year-round. Store at room temperature until flesh yields to gentle pressure, then refrigerate up to 3 days.

524 FRUITS green, the fruit is starchy with no banana taste; cooked when the skin is 饕Ⅱ ow or brown and the fruit is ripe, it has a sweet banana taste and a slightly chewytexture. ・ Red Banana: Heavier and chunkier than ドⅡ ow bananas, the flavor IS sweeter with a hint Of rasp- berry. Avai1able year-round. When ripe, the skin is purplish and the flesh is creamy with a touch of pink or orange. Cape Gooseberry: Also known as golden berry, these sweet-tart berries are 1 1 / 2 to 2 inches long and light green t0 orange-red with a papery orange-yellow skin. They have small, soft edible seeds. Peak season is February to July.. When ripe, they smell a bit like pineapple. Keep at room temperature a few days or in the refrigerator up tO 1 month. Champagne Grapes: A black corinth varietal, these tiny, reddish-purple, seedless grapes are crunchy, sweet and juicy. Peak season is July through October. Select fragrant, unblemished fruit with fresh stems. Store in a plastic bag in the refrigerator. Cherimoya (Custard Apple): Heart-shaped fruit with thin green skin that resembles a closed pine cone. Pulp IS creamy white with large black almond-shaped seeds and a sweet custard taste. Fruit is available year-round. S elect firm fruit; ripen room temperature until fruit yields to gentle pressure, then refrigerate. Citrus: ・ BIood Orange: Deep-red flesh that is sweet and 」 uicy is characteristic Of this orange. The peel is smooth or pitted with a red blush. Peak season 1S December through May. SeIect fruit that has a sweet fragrance, no blemishes and iS firm and heavy for its size. Store at C001 room temperature up tO 1 week or in the refrigerator up tO 2 weeks. Clementine Orange: Similar to a tangerine, this fruit is flatter in shape. The orange skin is 100Se and easy t0 peel. Flesh is orange, sweet and usually seed- less. Peak season is January through March. Se1ect fruit that is heavy for its size. Store in refrigerator. ・ HoneyTangerine: Very sweet and juicy, this fruit IS a cross between a tangerme and an orange. The flesh is orange with a touch ofgreen, and the peel IS easy tO remove. Peak season iS January through mid-March. Select fruit that is firm with some give and heavy for its size. Store in refrigerator. Key Lime: The Florida Keys are the primary growmg area for this yellowish lime that is small- er and rounder than a green Persian lime. The flesh is yellow, less acidic and んⅡ of seeds. Available year-round. Select fruit that is heavy for its size. Store in a closed bag in the refrigerator up to 1 week. Kumquat: Resembling a miniature orange fOOt- ball, this one- to two-inch fruit is entirely edible. The skin is sweet, and the orange pulp is tart. Peak season is December through May. Select firm fruit with a fresh scent that has no soft spots. Store in refrigerator up tO 2 weeks. ・ Lavender Gem ( 、 vekiwa): Crossing a grapefruit with a Sampson tangelo produced this hybrid fruit. lt resembles a miniature grapefruit with bright 1 ー 10W peel. The flesh is pinkish with small seeds and has a delicate, sweet grapefruit taste. Peak season IS December through February. Select fruit that is heavy for its size. Store in the refrigerator. Meyer Lemon: Favored for its mild, juicy flesh, this lemon has smooth, bright ) ℃Ⅱ ow peel. Peak season is November through May. Select fruit that is heavy for its size. Refrigerate in plastic bag up to 10 days. 0r0 BIanco: Crossing a pummelo with a grape- fruit cre ated this fruit with a thick, Ⅱ ow peel. The name means "white gold" in Spanish. The flesh is sweet and juicy with a grapefruit flavor and no bitterness or acidity,. The peak season is November through February. S elect fruit that is heavy for its size. Store in the refrigerator. ・ Pummelo: The largest of all citrus, this fruit ranges ln size om a small cantaloupe tO a basket- ball. The thick peel is green to yellow, and the sweet-tart flesh ranges 伝 om white tO pink or rose red. Fruit is sweeter, firmer and less juicy than a grapefruit. Peak season is November to March. Select fruit that yields to gentle pressure. Refrigerate 1 to 2 weeks. Tangelo: Tangelos are a cross between a pum- melo ()n ancestor ofthe grapefruit) and a tangenne ・

1 CANDIES 163 HOW TO TEST CANDY Soft 60 〃 stage: Forms 0 soft ba 〃 that flattens between fingers. Soft crack stage: Separates into hard but pliable threads. Bourbon BaIIs 0 Ⅳギ at Firm 60 ″ stage: Forms 0 firm ba 〃 that holds its shape untll pressed. Hard ( 「 0 ( k stage: Separates into hard, brittle threads that break eas 〃 /. Ha 60 〃 stage: Forms 0 hard ba 〃 that わ 0 旧 s its shape but is sti 〃可 ia 房 e. prep: 20 min; Chill: 5 d 叩ろ * About 5 dozen cookieå 1 package ( 9 ounces) chocolate wafer cookies, finely crushed ( 2 1 / 3 cups) 2 cups finely chopped almonds, pecans or walnuts 2 cups powdered sugar 1 / 4 cup bourbon 1 / 4 cup light corn syrup Powdered sugar 1. Mix crushed cookies, almonds and 2 cups powdered sugar in large bowl. Stir in bourbon and corn syrup ・ 2. Shape mixture into l-inch balls. RoIl in powdered sugar. Cover tightly and refrigerate at least 5 days before serving to blend flavors. 1 Cookie: CaIories 65 (Calories from Fat 25 ) ; Fat 3g (Saturated (g); Ch01esterol 0mg; S0dium 25mg; Carb0hydrate 10g (Dietary Fiber 1 g); Protein lg % DaiIy VaIue: Vitamin A 0 % : Vitamin C 0%; Calcium 0%;Iron 2 % Diet Exchanges: 1 / 2 Starch, 1 / 2 Fat BRANDY BALLS: Substitute 1 / 4 cup brandy for the bourbon. RUM BALLS: Substitute 1 / 4 cup light rum for the bourbon.

526 FRUITS Papaya: Large, oblong, yellowish green fruit that con- tains black seeds. The flesh of Hawaiian fruit is bright ) ℃Ⅱ ow to orange, and the flesh 0f Mexican fruit is bright orange to salmon red. Available year-round. Store at room temperature until fruit yields tO gentle pressure, then refrigerate up to 3 days. ・ Marad01 P 叩霍 The average weight ofthis long, round papaya with ドⅡ ow to green peel is 3 t0 5 pounds. The sweet and juicy flesh is salmon red and contains black seeds that need tO be removed before eating. Available ) ℃ ar-round. Select fruit that is soft to the touch. Refrigerate up to 3 days. Sunrise Papaya: This yellow papaya with a red blush is heavier, meatier and sweeter than the 1 ore C01 1 れ on variety. Peak season iS January through June. Ripen at room temperature until flesh gives tO gentle pressure, then refrigerate. Passion Fruit: Egg-shaped fruit of the passionflower family that is purplish in C010r with leathery skin. The flesh is golden and jellylike with a tart lemony flavor and small, black, edible seeds. New ZeaIand fruit is available March through June, and California fruit 佇 om July through May. Select fruit that is large and heavy,. R1pen at room temperature until the skin is almost black and very wrinkled, then refrigerate ・ Pepino Melon: Tear-drop-shaped melon has smooth, green skin and flesh that is golden ) ℃Ⅱ ow and fragrant. The flavor is slightly sweet with a taste of cantaloupe and cucumber. Fruit is available 伝 om late 儀Ⅱ to mid- spring. Select melons that are heavy for their size. As the fruit ripens, the skin will turn yellow and develop purple stripes. Store in the refrigerator, and use in 3 tO 4 days. Persimmon: ・ Fuyu: Persimmon shaped like a flattened ball that has skin ranglng in C010r from pale orange to bril- liant red-orange. The flesh is coreless with few seeds and has 紅 sweet flavor. Peak season iS September through mid-December. Store in a C001 place. Fruit can be eaten when firm or SOft. ・ Hachiya: Heart-shaped persimmon has smooth, brilliant reddish orange skin and flesh. The taste is extremely astringent when immature, and sweet and spicy when ripe. Peak season is September through mid-December. R1pen at room tempera- ture, and eat fruit when very SOft. Pomegranate: Leathery red rind covers this round fruit that is filled with tiny seeds encased in red juicy pulp ・ The seeds have a sweet and tangy taste and are sec- tioned between shiny, tough, white membranes. Although available September through December, peak season is October. Refrigerate up tO 3 months. Prick1y (Cactus) Pear: The pear-shaped fruit of cactus plants has medium green to dark magenta skin. The flesh ranges 伝 om pale green to ruby red and contains small edible seeds. The peak season is 丘 om September through April. Store at room temperature until fruit yields to slight pressure, then refrigerate up to 5 days. Quince: One of the earliest known fruits is apple shaped and ranges om apple to grapefruit size. The golden skin usually has a woolly surface, and the white flesh is firm and somewhat dry with an acidic pine-apple taste. ln ancient times, this fruit was called golden apple" and was considered an emblem of love and happiness. Peak season is September through December. Select large, smooth fruit, and store in the refrigerator for several 、 veeks. Rainier Cherries: Shiny yellow cherries have a red blush and a very sweet, delicate flavor. The flesh is white, firm and finely textured with colorless juice ・ Peak season is April through June. Cherries are shipped ripe; store in the refrigerator. Rambutan: Gr0W1ng in clusters on ornamental-type trees, this fruit has soft hairy spines protruding from reddish brown, leathery skin. lts name comes 丘 om the Malay word ra 〃〃 4 meaning "hair. " When peeled, pale flesh with a single seed is revealed. The fruit is sweet With a texture similar tO grapes. A small crop is avail- able in June and July and a large crop November through January. Store in refrigerator up to 1 week. Red Currants: This tart, juicy berry is about the size of a pea and usually used injellies, SaUCeS,J111Ce, pies, cakes or as beautiful garnish for 応 od platters. Peak season is mid-June through July. Sapote: Coreless, juicy fruit the size and shape 0f an apple has delicate, thin green skin that bruises easily. The flesh is yellowish, and the mild flavor is a combi-

1 1 Cookie and Bar Basics Who doesn't like homemade cookies and bars? They're fun to eat, easily portable and always a crowd pleaser. Whether chock-full ofchocolate and nuts or sweet and buttery, there's a favorite COOkie for everyone. Read on tO learn about a11 the different ingredients that go into baking. The ingredients you choose will have an effect on your cookies and bars. With people's tastes chang- ing a11 the time, isnt it nice tO know that COOkies and bars will always be favorites? Enjoy! lngredients 日 OII 「 Today's flours are presifted before they are packaged, so sifting agam isn t necessary. Use either bleached or unbleached all-purpose flour for most C00 es. When usmg whOle wheat flour, substitute it for one-third tO one-half the amount of all-purpose flour to keep cook- ies 丘 om becoming t00 dry. Bread flour isn t recom- mended because COOkies and bars can become tough•, cake flour can result in cookies and bars that are t00 delicate and fragile, so they may fall apart. Use self- rising flour 0n1 メ When recipe directions are given for it. To measure flour correctly, spoon it lightly into a dry- ingredient measuring cup, then level with a m etal spat- ula or straight-edged knife. Never dip the measuring cup intO the flour or tap the measuring cup tO settle the flour when measuring, or you'll get t00 much flour. T00 much flour makes cookies tough, crumbly and dry. Measuring t00 little flour causes cookies to spread and lose their shape. Note: S ome recipes use cornstarch for a part of the flour, resultlng in tender cookies that have a very fine and compact texture. Cornstarch and flour are not interchangeable cup for cup, so 100k for specific recipes that use cornstarch. COOKIES Oats 137 Quick-cooking and old-fashioned rolled oats are inter- changeable unless recipes call for a specific type. lnstant oatme al products are not the same as quick-cooklng and should not be used for baking (See page 150 for more about Oats). Old-fashioned oats are larger than quick-cooklng oats and don't absorb as much moisture, making them more moist and chewy. Quick-cooking oats are smaller than old-fashioned oats and absorb moisture better. These い VO factors make quick-cooking oats especially good for nonbaked cookies because they will hold together very well. Fats and 0 〃 s Fats add tenderness and flavor to cookies and bars, but fats are not created equal in texture and flavor. The type Of fat you choose—butter, margarine, reduced-calorie or low-fat butter or margarine, vegetable-oil spreads or shortening—depends on the kind of cookie you want. The biggest difference among these fats is how much water they contain, which affects hOW cookies bake and their eating texture. Cookies made with fats that have 紅 10t of water in them will be soft, puffy and tough and will dry out quickly.We have recommended butter or stick margarine for our recipes. See page 16 for specif- iC information on each type Of fat. SOFTENING BUTTER OR MARGARINE Most cookie recipes call for softened butter or mar- garine. But how soft is it supposed to be, and how can you tell? A110W butter tO SOften at room temperature for 30 to 45 minutes; the time will vary, depending on the temperature Of your kitchen. You can alSO soften it in the microwave (See Micro 、 vave Cooking and Heating Chart, page 544 ). Perfectly softened butter should give gently to pressure (you should be able to leave a finger- print and slight indentation on the stick) but shouldn't be soft in appearance. Butter that is t00 soft or is par- tially melted results in dough that is t00 soft, causing COOkies tO spread t00 much.

20 COOKING BASICS & INGREDIENTS Sha110t: An onion with multiple cloves that resemble garlic. The papery skin that covers the bulbs ranges in C010r 伝 om beige to purple and should be removed. ShaIIots and onions can be used interchangeably. Soy Sauce: A brown sauce made from soybeans, wheat, yeast and salt used in COOking and as a condiment especially in Chinese and Japanese cooking. Sugar: Sweetener produced 丘 om sugar beets or cane sugar. Available in several forms: Artificial sweeteners: A variety Of products is available. lt's not recommended for baking because lt isn't really sugar and the flavor may break down. ・ Brown (packed): Brown sugar today is made by nmxmg white sugar with molasses. Available in light and dark varieties; dark brown sugar has the 1 れ ore lntense flavor. If brown sugar hardens, store ln a closed contalner With slice Of apple or a of fresh bread for 1 to 2 days. ・ Granulated: Standard white sugar available in quantitles ranging from l-pound boxes to 100 ー pound bags, as well as in cubes and l-teaspoon packets. ・ M01as ses : A dark, thick syrup 丘 om the sugar refining process. Powdered: Granulated sugar that has been processed intO a fine powder and used for frostings and for dusting pastries and cakes. Tomatillo: Easily mistaken for a small green tomatO, tomatillos grow in a paper husk that's removed before use. Citrusy in flavor, tomatillos are commonly used in salsas and Mexican sauces. TortiIIa: The everyday bread of Mexico, tortillas 100k like a very thin pancake. Made 伝 om ground wheat or corn, tortillas can be eaten plain or as a 、 around both hot and cold fillings. Both fresh and fried (hard shell) tortillas are available in varieties such as blue corn, spinach and tomatO. Truffle: This European fungus is one of the world's most expensive 応 OdS. lt gröws Wild near the roots Of trees; truffle hunters sometimes employ tralned pigs and dogs tO sniff out the treasured morsels. Roundish with thick, wrinkled skin and pungent flavor, truffles are used in sauces and omelets and as a garnish. Available fresh, canned and as a paste in a tube. 、 Vorcestershire sauce: : 01 れ 1 れ condiment made 伝 om exotic blend Of ingredients: garlic, soy sauce, tamarind, omons, molasses, 1i1 れ e , anch0V1es, V1negar and Other seasonlngs. Although named for Worcester, England, where it was first bottled, Worcestershire sauce was developed in lndia by the British. Yeast: Leavemng Whose fermentation causes yeast bread to rise. The combination ofwarmth, food (sugar) and hquid causes yeast to release carbon dioxide bub- bles that, in turn, cause dough tO rise. Yeast is very sen- sitive; t00 much heat will kill it, and COld will stunt its growth. Always use yeast before its expiration date. bread machine yeast. amount tO 1 teaspoon for each 3 / 4 teaspoon Of bread machines, メ ou may need tO increase the can be used in 1 OSt yeast bread recipes. For use ln ・ Regular active dry yeast: Dehydrated yeast that ably with bread machine yeast. Quick active dry yeast can be used interchange- a110 、 bread tO rise in less time than regular yeast. Qyick active dry yeast: Dehydrated yeast that they are interchangeable. cake of yeast is equal to 1 package of dry yeast— or those with a long r1Sing time. One 0.6 ounce especially good for breads starting with a sponge entS or SOften in warm 、 vater first. ThiS yeast iS using. Simply crumble the cake into dry ingredi- process, it doesnt need tO be dissolved before 2 ounces. Because it has not undergone the drying iS SOId in moist cakes in れ VO SIZes, 0.6 ounce and ・ Compressed cake or fresh active yeast: This yeast not r1Se. use brewer s yeast for making bread; the bread will it is also sold as a 応 od supplement. DO not in making beer. Due tO its rich vitamin B content, Bre 、 ver s yeast: Special nonleavening yeasts used bread machines. finely granulated and works exceptionally well in Bread machine yeast: A strain Of yeast that's

MERINGUES 189 Tips for Meringues Meringue, a froth of egg white, sugar and air, can make a melt-in-your-mouth soft topping for pies, such as Lemon Meringue Pie (page 130 ) , or a hard, crispy shell to cradle cream fillings, fruit or ice cream, such as for Lemon Meringue Torte (page 191 ). Here are tips for making successful mermgues every t11 れ e : ・ Pick a C001 , dry day to make meringue. If it's humid or ralny, the sugar in the meringue W111 absorb moisture 伝 om the air and make the meringue sticky and spongy. The meringue also may get beads, or drops, of sugar syrup on the surface. Start with cold eggs. You'll want to separate them very carefully, because even a speck 0f 聖 lk in the whites will keep the whites 伝 om fluffing up fully during beating. TO prevent contammation 丘 om the outside of the shell, don't pass the egg yolk back and forth between the shell halves. To sepa- rate eggs, use an egg separator (page 9 ). So that the egg whites will really fluff up during beating, let them stand at room temperature for 30 minutes before beating. Or put the whites in a mlcrowavable bO 、 and microwave uncovered on High for about 10 seconds per egg white to bring them tO room temperature. Don't heat them for more time in the microwave; ifyou heat them t00 Beat in sugar S10W1 メ , about 1 tablespoon, at a tlme SO that your merlngue WIII be smooth and not gritty. Continue beating until the meringue stands in stiff, glos ッ peaks when you lift the beaters out Of the mixture. So Meringue Spread the meringue over the hot pie filling right up tO the crust a11 the way around SO that it will "seal. " If the meringue is sealed, it won't shrink or weep, or ooze, liquid after baking. With a table knife or metal spatula, swirl the meringue into points to make it 100k light, fluffy and pretty SO the meringue won't shrink as it C001S , make sure the pie isn't placed in a draft. Hard Meringue ・ A hard meringue shell should be thoroughly dry after baking. If not baked long enough, it will be limp and gummy. ・ C001 hard meringue shells in the oven—with the heat turned off—for as long as the recipe suggests so they will be dry and crisp. To keep them crisp, store meringue ShellS in a container with a tight- fitting lid. FiII hard meringue shells just before servrng so they don't absorb moisture 仕 om the filling and become chewy, unless the recipe gives Other directlons. long they'll cook through. Egg whites will not beat up if even a trace Offat is present. Because there is fat in egg yolks, there cannot be even the smallest amount of yolk with the whites. The beaters and bowl must be clean and dry. BEATING EGG WHITES Separate the eggs very carefully, one egg at a time, int0 a small bowl. Then add that egg white to the mixing bowl. Discard any egg white that does not separate completely from the / 0 匕 and start with another clean small bowl for the next egg. げ you separate eggs directly int0 the mixing bowl, one speck of yolk will mean that the entire amount will not beat up.

162 CANDIES Candy Basics We all need a sweet indulgence—truffles, fudge, caramels, popcorn balls or toffee—at some time. For gifts or for enjoylng at home, there's nothing like homemade candy.With the following guidelines, you'll find making candy at home surprisingly easy. Pans and Pan Preparation Pan swe—for cookmg and shaping—can make a difference. the size saucepan called for in a recipe. , saucepan that's t00 large or t00 small can affect cooking time. When you're shaping candy, if the pan is t00 large, the candy will be spread t00 thin; ifit's t00 small, the candy will be t00 thick. You'lI end up with the most evenly shaped pieces if you use a square or rectangular pan with straight sides. TO easily remove candy from pans, it's best t0 grease them with butter or margarine, not shortening (butter and margarine simply taste better), or tO line them with aluminum 応 il. Mixing and Cooking Be sure tO use full-fat butter or margarlne—not veg- etable 0i1 spreads or tub products—so that candies will set or have a nice brittle texture. Don't double the recipe—make れ vo batches instead. lncreasing the amount Of ingredients changes the cooking time. Make candy on a C001 , dry day, because heat and humidity, as well as altitude, can affect how candy turns out. If it's humid, COOk candy to a temperature one degree or so higher than the recipe says. Make sure your sugar has a chance to dissolve C01 一 pletely over 10W heat or your candy will crystallize or be gralny. SO stir down any sugar grains from the side of the saucepan. Or when you start cooking the candy, cover the pan for a few minutes; the steam inside will wash down any sugar crystals 佇 om the side. After candy has boiled, do not stir it until it has cooled to keep it from crystallizing or becoming gramy ・ Determining When CandyIs Done Using a reliable candy thermometer makes knowing when candy iS done easy,. Here are a few tips for using a candy thermometer: Check to see if it's accurate by putting the ther- mometer in water and then bOiling the water. The thermometer should read 212 。 . If the reading is higher or lower, take the difference lnto account when making candy. ・ Check an altitude table to find out the boiling point in your area, then adjust the cooking time if necessary. TO get an accurate reading, be sure the thermome- ter stands upright in the candy mixture. The bulb, or tip, Of the thermometer shouldn't rest on the bOttom Of the pan. Read the thermometer at ey ℃ level.Watch the temperature closely—after 200 it goes up very quickly. If you don't have a thermometer, use the cold water test. With a clean spoon, drop a small amount ofcandy mixture into a cupful ofvery cold water. Test the hardness with your fingers (see chart below). If the candy doesn't pass the test, keep cooking ・ CANDY COOKING TESTS Hardness Soft ball Firm ball Hard ball Soft crack Hard crack Temperature 300 。 to 310 。 270 。 to 290 。 250 。 to 268 242 。 to 248 。 234 。 to 240 。 ( 0 旧 Water Test Forms a soft ball that flattens between fi nge rs Forms a firm ball that holds its shape until pressed Forms a hard ball that holds its shape but is pliable Separates intO hard but pliable threads Separates intO hard, brittle threads that break easily

MEATS 219 Meat Basics Chops and cutlets, sirloin, short loin and top roasts and ribs, beef, veal, pork and lamb. Standing in front Of the meat case at your 10C 紅 1 supermarket can be overwhelming. But we're here t0 help!With more than sixty cuts of beef available, knowing what you're 100k ー ing for before you buy really helps. N0t only will the information in this chapter help you be a savvy shopper' it'll help you cook any kind of meat like an expert ・ TOday'S meat is leaner and lower in fat and calories than ever before. That's great, but it does mean you have tO be mindful when you are preparing it SO as not tO over- COOk it. HOW tO buy meat and hOW tO COOk it are just a couple of the tips you'll pick up from this chapter. We've included the latest information and recommendations for storing, seasoning and handling, t00. Grades of Meat Meat inspection and meat grading are tWO different steps. As required by law, meat is inspected for whole- someness and cleanliness. Meat grading iS an optional practice and is not required by law. Meats are graded for quality by the U. S. Department of Agriculture (U S DA). There are eight USDA grades; the ones you'll find in your supermarket are ChOice and Select, the second and third highest grades. Prime, the highest grade, usu- iS reserved for restaurant use but can be found in some meat stores and in some supermarkets. gives you an idea about the meat S flavor and overall quality. You've probably seen the USDXs shield-shaped stamp of approval, especially on beef• Meat MarbIing Ever examlne a piece Of meat and see the little specks and streaks of white fat through the lean? That's mar- bling, and it's an indicator ofhowjuicy the meat will be when cooked. The more marbling, the more tender and Jtlicy the meat, but also the more fat and calories per serving. The amount of marbling will affect how you cook a cut of meat and for how long. The timetables throughout the chapter take the guesswork out of cooking a11 different kinds and cuts of meat. Tips for Buying Fresh Meats Choose wrapped packages without any tears, holes or le s. There should be little or no liquid in the bottom Of the tray. ・ Make sure the package is cold and feels firm. Avoid buying packages that are stacked t00 high in the meat case because they may not have been kept cold enough. ・ Check thesell-by date. This shows the last day the product should be sold, but the meat will be fresh if cooked and eaten within 2 days of the date. Put packages of meat in plastic bags before put- ting them in your grocery cart SO that any bactena present in the juices drip on and contaml- nate Other fOOds, especially those that won't be cooked. Don't buy or use any meat that has turned gray, has an off odor or feels slippery ・ put meat in the refrigerator as soon as you get home 丘 om shopping. If you're running a 10t of errands, save shopping until last, then SCOOt right home if you've got fresh or frozen meat in your grocery bags ・ Reading a Meat Label A 10t of information is squeezed onto the little label on a package of meat, information that will help you make the right selection for your recipe and even help you know how the meat should be cooked. Label informa- t10n is standardized, SO no matter what kind Of meat you're buying or where you live, everyone has the same information. ・ The kind of meat: beef, pork, veal, lamb. ・ The primal or wholesale cut (where it comes from on the animal): chuck, rib, loin, etc. ・ The retail cut (where it comes from on the primal cut): blade roast, loin chops, etc ・

208 Cheese BasiCS There's a great big world ofcheese out there. Exploring the varieties Of domestic and imported cheeses can be a taste adventure with myriad flavors, textures, colors and shapes tO choose from that brings excitement tO bOth eating and C00 ng. Legend has it that cheese was "discovered" by an Arab merchant crossing the desert whO was pleased tO find that the milk he'd carried all day in a pouch had trans- formed into dinner: thin, watery whey and thick curds. Although cheese making is a little more scientific tOday, the process IS similar. lt's the different ways milk is processed that accounts for the major differences among cheeses, along with their fat contents. Today you'll find reduced-fat and 10W ー儀 t cheeses on the market, and many are just fine for eating. For cooking, keep in mind that lower-fat cheeses don't melt well; they also become rubbery, and the flavor may change. All cheeses f', 1 into four categories: natural, pasteurized process cheese, cheese 応 Od and pasteurized cheese spread. Kinds of Cheese Cheeses are made from the milk (whole, skim or some- times ra 、 v) or cream Of cows, sheep or goats. The milk is treated with heat, smoke, bacterla or other agents to make it curdle; then the curds (solids) are separated 丘 om the whey (liquid). The curds may or may not be aged or rlpened. S01 れ e fresh, or unripened, cheeses are COttage cheese and cream cheese; some aged, or ripened, cheeses are Cheddar and Parmesan. Both npened and unripened cheeses may have ingredients such as herbs, spices and even bits of fruit added. Ripened cheese is processed further by being shaped, coated in wax or colored. Then it's left tO ripen until it reaches its distinct flavor and texture. Natural cheeses have SO many variations—from the kind of milk they're made from to their flavor and tex- ture tO the cheesemaking process used—that categoriz- ing them is difficult. ln the chart Varieties of Natural Cheese (page 210 ) , we've grouped them according to hardness. CHEESE Pasteurized process cheese is a 0f one or 1 れ ore varieties Of natural cheese that is ground and heated. The process stops the ripenlng, so the flavor doesn t change and they keep well. American is probably the 1 れ OSt famous Of these cheeses. Pasteurized process cheese Often is flavored With herbs, spices and even bits of fruit, vegetables and meat. Cheese fOOd iS one 1 第 ore varieties ()f natural cheeses made without heat (coldpack) or with heat (pasteurized process cheese). Dairy products such as cream, milk, skim milk or whey are added, so cheese 応 od has a higher percentage Of moisture than natural or pasteur- ized process cheese. Cheese food is usually sold in tubs or jars and iS Often flavored. Pasteurized cheese spread is t0 pasteurized process cheese except it s spreadable at room tempera- ture. lt's alSO higher in moisture and lower in fat than cheese fOOd. iS cheese ln 紅 cans. Handling and Storing Cheese For appetizers or snacks, serve cheeses at r001 れ temperature to bring out their 応Ⅱ flavor. Take the cheese out Of the refrigerator, and let stand covered about 30 minutes before servlng. Or microwave firm cheese uncovered on Medium-Low (30%) about 30 seconds for 8 ounces ofcheese, rotating a halfturn after half the time. Let stand few minutes before serving ・ For cooking, use cheese right from the refrigerator. To keep cheese om drying out, wrap a11 cheeses tight- 1 メ in plastic wrap or aluminum foil, then store in the refrigerator. R1pened cheese will contlnue tO age during storage; hard cheeses will keep for 3 to 4 weeks, softer cheeses will keep 伝 om 1 to 2 weeks. Large pieces tend tO keep longer than smaller ones. Mold メ cheese?lt 100kS c い , but it's harmless. Before using, trim away 1 / 2 inch of cheese on a11 sides of the mold; use the remaining cheese as quickly as possible. lfmold appears on blue cheese (besides the natural blue veining), throw it out. You can reduce mold growth by changing the wrapping each time you use the cheese.