The split wood is passed through a bandsaw so that The cooper uses a metal ring [ 0 hold the tapered the staves are equal in length and width from the staves as he begins tO assemble the barrel. outset. When the circle is complete, the cooper secures ⅱ by hammering a second and then a third hoop around the barrel. The staves are still splayed out at the other end ofthe intensity ofthis toasting is crucial in determining The cooper places a metal cable around the barrel and the aromas the finished barrel will impart tO the wine. uses leverage [ 0 dra 、 V it progressively tighter, whilst barrel, and are heated over an open fire SO that they 引 SO dampening the outside Ofthe staves. can be bent [ 0 shape. The barrel still has no opening in the side, and so the The outside ofthe barrel is given its fin 引 planing The staves atthe other end eventually form a perfect cooper bores a bung-hole into the oak, which he then before the bottom and lid are 贏に d. closed CiI ・ Cle that can be secured with a hOOP. enlarges [ 0 a prescribed Size. IN THE WINERY 133
BODEGAS AND CO-OPERATIVES ln Castile, mean 、 vhile, wme-gro 、 Ving regions such as that around the Medina del Campo had reached the peak of their fame. For a while, the town had almost 50() bodegas, or wmeries. ln the mid-19th century, people began to lay the foundations Of modern Spanish viticulture ln La Rioja, and in 1850 , Luciano de Murrieta produced the first "modern Ri0J a" using vat- fermenting methods, thereby establishing the basis for an impresslve success story. ln 1872 Josep Ravent6s founded the C0dornfu spark- ling winery. After 1930 , the first l)enommacion de Origen (). O. ) regions came into being: Jerez in 1935 , Målaga in 1937 , and MontiIla-Moriles in 1945. As early as the 1920S , La Rioja was glven an initial, provlsional regulatory mecha- msm, but did not become a D. O. in its present sense until 1947 , and then 0 司 y in conJunction with the region of Tarragona. The consequences of the CivilWar, which ended in 1939 with victory for Franco's army, crippled the Spanish wine-growing industry. People tried to bring this decline under control by re-establishing co-operatives and by pro- cessing the huge quantities Of grapes in a more efficient and economical way. This led to the creation not only 0f the upper-middle-class わ 0 g but 引 so of the second of the two types Of winery that still dominate most Of the Spanish wine market today. TO understand the Spanish wine situatlon, it IS essential tO know that even now, among the wine growers, there is only a small middle stratum that markets its own products. Famous regions such as the D. O. Ca. Ri0ja or Jerez are dominated by large wlneries, the traditional bodegas, which have 0 司 y a small wine-growing area Of their own and procure grapes or even young W1ne under contract from W1ne growers within the region. Traditionally, in addition tO VINIFICATION, the わ Od gas believed their work lay in vat fermenting and in bottle-agemg W1nes. ln this way, they met the wishes Of Spanish Wine drinkers, WhO appreciated mature W1nes Of consistent quality each year. The number of wooden vats offered large わ odegas many opportunities t0 blend wines. This enabled cellarmen to guarantee that quality remained as conSIStent as possible each year. They also t00k care t0 add a limited amount Of Older W1ne. ln many northern Spanish wine shops, people attached greater lmportance tO maturity than tO the VINTAGE, and as a result a label would describe a wine as being "in its fifth year," displaying the actual vintage 0 司 y on the back label. The co-opera- tives, on the other hand, aged only a very small quantity Of their W1ne in the barrel, and concen- trated on supplying branded producers and selling simple young wmes. Nowadays, the distinctions that were once SO strict are becoming blurred. Nearly all わ 0d g お have become modern 、 V1neries that are no 、 working very hard toward attainlng vintage character. The only feature that remams is their dependence on Other people's wine harvest; the same iS true Of the co-operatives. Many no 、 age an excellent drop 0f wine in the barrel. There has 引 so been a palpable change in those growers whO bOttle their own wine. 物 1 the past few years, many have broken free 0f the large concerns and taken a step toward autonomy. They are respon- sible for a major part Of the revolution in the quality 0f Spanish wines over the last 1 () years, creating several top-quality wine specialties that point the way for the entire Spanish wine- producing industry, especially the large tradi- tlonal 、 vinerles. The じわ 4 〃 concept, or co 〃 ce 々 de c わ 4 〃 as the Spanish call it, is another new develop- ment. ln line with the French model, a consider- able number of producers have become established within a relatively short period of tlme, adhering more or less strictly tO the claim of making wrnes using only their own grapes. lt has tO be said that SOil and position have not been typical considerations when looking at the history 0f Spanish wine. But this is exactly where the future lies, because hardly any other country in mainland Europe has SO many good Sltuations and SOiIS for Wine growing as Spain. The 0 旧 Contino estate with 1tS lmpresslve cellar StandS on a bend in the river Ebro, not far fi ・ om Log 「 0 ⅱ 0. lt p roduces an excellen [ estate- bottled Rioja. SPAIN 571
ting wines, creating levels Of demand that soon PHYLLOXERA:A BLESSING exceed their capacity, then buy in grapes ln IN DISGUISE? order tO meet customers' requirements. Well- known producers have built up extensive A great many new vineyards were planted in the 1970S when the renalssance of Californian wrne ranges Of Wines in thiS 、 vay. The division of labor between grape farming was beginning tO gain momentum. At this time and winemaking allOWS the winemakers a great the University Of California at DaviS was recom- deal Of scope for experimentation. Some Of the mending the use 0f the high-yielding AxR 1 root- 1 れ OSt creatlve among them no longer use stan- stock (a 川々おななー〃 ra hybrid). Only obstinate dard grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot W1ne growers lnsisted on the Saint George root- Noir, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon BIanc. Many stock, which had proved itself to be resistant have discovered a preference for Rhöne varie- to phylloxera in practice. The maJority chose ties, such as Syrah, Mourv&dre, Viogmer, and AxR 1 , so that eventually about three-quarters of Roussanne, and now ltalian varleties have all the vineyards in Sonoma and Napa were planted with it. However, it soon became ap- come tO their attention ・—not JtlSt Sangiovese, but Barbera, and even Teroldego as well. parent that this rootstock was susceptible tO a Borders and distances are barrier, and the mutation Of the vine louse. ln the meantime, the grapes can be transported for hundreds 0f miles rapacious lnsect had destroyed almost all these in refrigerated trucks. As a result, it is possible vinestocks, WIPing out vineyards that failed tO to buy Pinot Noir from Oregon that has been meet the standards established by the latest re- fermented in Santa Barbara. search. Farmers, W1nemakers, and wineries have taken the opportunity tO plant new vineyards, consciously taking steps t0 produce grapes 0f the . A BRIGHT FUTURE . AHEAD highest quality. To this end, vine density has been At the moment the really outstanding quality increased decisively, and many vineyards have W1nes from California are SO rare and SO much converted tO natural-cultivation techniques. in demand that prices are climbing exceedingly lt is possible tO detect another new trend. ln high. But the area has immense potential for the the past, wine growers planted on the most future, because, except for a fe 、 exceptions ln convenient sites, such as valley bottoms and flat Other W1ne regions, it is only in Napa and plains, where the subsequent COStS Of processlng Sonoma that the best 一夜 0 s have been iden- could be kept down, but a new generatlon of tified and planted with care. ln addition, the W1nemakers and winenes IS consciously choosing latest phylloxera epidemic is wiping out the 01d tO work on hillside な 0 耘 s , placing emphasis on style of planting, which favored flat, fertile the importance Of aspect.Now that it has been areas. These 7 OI る were planted 、 Vith 10 Ⅵ " V1ne established which types of vine do best in certain densities, the land heavily irrigated,large quan- climates, scient1Sts are 引 SO beginning tO develop tities Of fertilizers applied, and the vines trained a better understanding of which soils are likely to intO enormous trunks. ThiS form Of Vine traln- achieve the most satisfactory result with partic- ing, in which the individual canes put forth ular grapes. As many 0f the Californian wines dozens Of buds, iS known as the TRUNK SYSTEM are already 0f high quality, there is every reason and made it possible to attain yields of up to tO expect great things in future. 4 , 250 gallons per acre (400 hl/ha)! More ser10LIS producers worked With much lower yields, but even now people in California talk about 850 to 1 , 100 gallons per acre ( 80 ー 100 hl/ha) as 10W yields, and maximum yields of 2,100 to 2 , 600 gallons per acre (200—240 hl/ha) are not uncommon in places that produce pleas- ant, average W1nes. By contrast, David Abreu, a W1nery consultant and top winemaker whO lives in the Napa Valley and specializes 1n modern, natural winemaking, believes that just under 640 gallons per acre ( 60 hl/ha) is ideal. ln this respect, some Of the most outstanding wines hardly differ from their European counterparts, producing yields ofless than 315 , and certainly no more than 535 gallons per acre ( 30 ー 50 hl/ha). The irony offate: America supplied the world with res istant rootstocks, only [ 0 suffer its own phylloxera epidemic. 、 (ore than three- quarters 0fthe Californian vineyards were devastated by this rapaciO us insect during the last few decades ofthe 20d1 century. 0 黝事彊 : イイこ % をらを呼象 NORTH AMERICA 8 Ⅱ
HIGHLY PERSONAL PÉTRUS Pomerol is downright flat. Where other wme- growmg areas boast Of their landscape charms, the 1 , 980 acres (800 (a) of PomeroI stretch north of the old port of Libourne, flat as far as the eye can see. The only eye-catcher in the district is the tall, much photographed church tower. There is no real village, at best smallish hamlets and any number Of scattered wine- growing estates, over 15() in all, of which some of the best-known have under 24.5 acres ( 10 ha) tO manage. 1 , 980 acres (800 (a) of vine stocks is not much, particularly as the wine yields are the lowest of all Bordeaux reds. But what a list of names: Pétrus, Trotanoy, Clinet, Gazin, La Conseillante, … ! Very few wme regions of the world can boast prestige Of that sort. Yet during all the centuries when Médoc and Graves or even neighboring Saint-Emilion were busily building their reputations, Pomerol always The Vie ux Chåteau Certan supplies outstanding remained tO one side. Although wine-growlng Pomerol. goes back a long way, there was no historical continuity tO it. lt was only at the beginning of the 20th century that the Belgians and Dutch began tO take an interest in the wines from the front gardens of Libourne, and it took until the 1950S for Pétrus and its neighbors to become anything approaching celebrities—and that for a ロ・〃 that is now frequently called the most expensive single W1ne in the world! lts late discovery also accounts for the fact that all attempts at classification have passed it by without a trace. More than such attempts at まをこ .- = 0 classification, lt IS outstanding personalities that brought Pomerol prestige. Undoubtedly Jean-Pierre Moueix is among these. Not only has he made a series of c わ田イエ in the Bordelais famous, he has also successfully steered the Dominus prOJect in California tO prestige. Also a great influence in the develop- ment Of the wine industry, not only in pomerol but in the Bordelais generally and in the Midi and distant Spain, is the enologist MicheI RoIIand of PomeroI-Chåteau Le Bon Pasteur. Chåteat1 Pétrus iS the home THE MARK OF THE TERROIR Ofone Ofthe most sought- after red wines in the world. Though Merlot is important in Saint-Emilion, it features still more prominently in pomerol. Chåteau Pétrus, for example, the icon of Pomerol, cultivates Cabernet Franc on one ()f its 28 acres, but this virtually never ends up in the final ロれを巳 For some decades, the rest has been planted entirely with Mer10t stocks. Even in the early 1950S , Cabernet Franc still constituted 30 percent. The vineyards Of Pétrus lie in the north- eastern part of the appellation—Cheval-Blanc in the Saint-Emilion district IS not far away—on its highest elevation. The specialty of Pétrus is its 7 丁 0 わ - : the soils Of the plateau consist predomi- nantly 0 日 oam with ferrous layers in the subsoil. The loam give the wines their sumptLIOUS, round fullness, which always prevails over the notice- able tannins, while the iron is purportedly responsible for the truffle aromas that develop as the wine ages. Top Pomerols are highly modern red 、 vines. Resp()11S1ve even When
WINE GROWING IN SOUTH AMERICA of the best vines obtainable, for every hundred lndians. Criolla vines were most likely grafted ontO native V1nes, and it seems qulte possible that it was this measure that spared Mexico the disas- ters that befell those growers in North America whO tried unsuccessfully to establish Ⅵ廰〃 / in the ubiquitous presence Of PHYLLOXERA. FROM INCA GOLD TO GOLD MEDALS FORWINE Viticulture spread throughout South America, following the Jesuit missions, in the first phase of the conquest of the lncan empire of Tahuantmsuyu—Chile, Peru, B01ivia, Ecuador, and small parts Of some Other South American countries as they are no 、、 VhiCh 、 completed in 1533. Peru and Chile were the first to be planted, simply because these were the most important parts Of the lncan emprre and rich in the right kind Of mountain terraces, complete with irrigation channels, for the culti- vation Of the vine. The earliest record Of the cultivation of the vine in Peru is 1550 , based on the records of a Spanish settler, Bart010mé de Terrazas, WhO had received a r 々 47 ・〃〃 7 〃 0 near CLIZCO. Within 20 years, vineyards were flourishing in Chile. Although it was the Jesuit misslons which were initially responsible for the spread of viti- culture, it seems likely that a gathering trend towards commercial production 、 fostered by secular and non-religious estates. The rate Of viticultural expansion was considerable, despite the fact that the native lndians, whO then grew grapes, regarded the vine as the very symbol 0f the white conquerors' power. 0 South America Offers one Of the most fasci- nating Of wine stories. lt is the Spanish and their great 16th-century voyages 0f discovery and conquest that we have tO thank for the early disseminatlon Of the Vine and Wine culture on the South American continent. AS succeSSIVe waves Of settlers came tO appreclate, South America's position, south Of the TropiC Of Capricorn, IS well suited tO viticulture. ln part1C- ular, the slopes of the Andes provide the ideal 、行ⅱ a Santa M6nica in the terrain, complemented by ample sunshine, dry Rapel Valley south of heat, cooling breezes, and irrigation 、 vaters fror れ Santiago was created in melted snow which feeds the many rivers 1976 , partly by the acqt11Sition OfOIder flowing down the Andes tO east and west. As a vmeyards. lt has since result, South America tOday is the second most become increasingly export-focused. important wlne-producing continent after Europe. Argentina is the biggest producer by some way, followed by Chile and Brazil. Wine is 引 so produced in Uruguay, Peru, and Bolivia, and even in Ecuador and Venezuela. Mexico is the oldest wine producer on the American continent. ln fact, records ShOW Mexico to be the first New World country in which レ / 〃 / ′ 4 vines from Europe were planted. lt was Of the utmost importance tO the conqL11S- tadors in the 16th century that there was an abundant supply of sacramental wine for relig- purposes. Ships from Spain carried wine but supplies were limited. Hernån Cortés first sent for vine cuttings from Spain in 1522. He made 尾々 4 な / 川〃 grants ()f land and lndian slaves) conditional on the planting of a quota of 1 000 Like many otherwine- growi ng estates, the Undurraga estate with itS 。旧 barrel cellars was created in ChiIe's Maipo VaIley in the 1880S. *ANTA M()NlCü INTRODUCTION 836
THE TASTE OF WINE that dominates your first impresslons denotes a The flavors of a wrne are not tasted solely W1ne Of simpler or lesser quality, but true none- with the tongue. The taste buds on the tongue theless. AII t00 often, such products are the result can only detect four basic tastes: sweet, sour, of unripe grapes, yields that are t00 high, and bitter, and salty. We can 引 so differentiate technological and/or chemical manipulation. ℃ en vanous fOOd textures ln our mouths, People with delicate stomachs, in particular, such as whether a substance IS VISCOLIS or runny, dry or creamy. The subtleties Of a taste, Often find that they cannot tolerate these aggres- S1ve wines. A high level of acidity needs to be however—the complexity Of its aromas—are detected by the olfactory center by way 0f the accommodated within a correspondingly lavish overall structure. back of the throat. Sweetness, t00 , must be counterbalanced by Only aroma molecules that escape from the something else in the structure and aromatIC liquid and reach the olfactory center along with spectrum Of a wine. If it is not encased in fruit the air we breathe in can contribute tO our or the delicately bitter overtones produced by a lmpresslon Of hOW a Wine tastes. ThLIS it iS not wooden barrel or NOBLE ROT, sweetness makes bad manners to slurp and gurgle when tasting a a Wine seem one-dimensional and flabby. wine, but an absolute necessity tO allOW Excessive bitterness, on the Other hand, indi- optimal disclosure Of a wine tO the senses. cates that the producer has made an error Of some sort, St1Ch as fermentlng rotten grapes, WHITE WINE over-pressing the MUST, or using tOO much chalk in the de-acidification process. When the wine flows over the tongue, depending sensory impressions ()f a White W1ne on its temperature, the taste buds will perceive its gained in the mouth can be very diverse. Texture sweetness first, closely followed by its acidity and flavor should be well matched: if a wine is (sourness)—the tWO components that charac- relatively viscous as it flOWS over the tongue, for terize the basic structure Of a white wine. The impresslon Of sweetness IS not created purely by example, we would expect it tO stimulate corre- unfermented RESIDUAL SUGAR, however, but alSO spondingly sumptuous taste sensations there. Nevertheless, only the complexity of its aromas, by the alcohol. Consequently, both sweet and dry whites have this two-tone structure, and the which is most readily appreciated at the moment When Y()LI start tO swallO 、 glves us an indica- balance Of sweetness and acidity is an important tion as tO the true greatness Of a wine. Modest indicator Of production method and quality. lt is W1nes for the mass market limit themselves tO a simplification tO say that a sharp, acidic taste Regions Of taste receptlon on the tongue epithelium taste ト udS 0 blood vessel CO nnectlve t1SSt1e Papilla of the tongue bitter sour support-tng cells salt senso ry cel ls nerve bundle lingual mucosa S 、 veet Taste bud 34 TASTING
Barossa Valley, along with parts of Victoria and the lower part of Great Southern Region of Western Australia. Riesling produces full- flavored, lime-zesty, full-bodied dry wines of distinctlon and character, as well as S01 第 e Of Australia's best botrytized sweet wines. The Semillon grape is another variety that produces W1nes Of umque character ln Australia, particularly in the Barossa Valley and parts Of Margaret River, but most famously in the traditional region of the Hunter Valley, where, as an unoaked white, it develops haunt- ing flavors of buttered toast and grilled nuts. lt is often barrel-fermented in the Barossa Valley and alSO in Western Australia, Where it IS S01 れ e - tlmes blended with Sauvignon Blanc in the Graves style. Sauvignon itself, rather like Pinot NOir, has begun tO galn recognition, after being planted in cooler areas such as the Adelaide HillS, Coonawarra, and Tasmama. GRAPE VARIETIES AS BRAND NAMES lt is strange tO think that a generation ago it was considered forthright t0 label an Australian wine by its grape variety. Varietal labeling began in California, but has become synony- mous with wines from the New Wor 旧 . ln Australia it is the key tO a wine style and, once linked to the name of the producer and the region, becomes an integral part Of the brand. As already mentioned, this is partly because Australia does not hOld tO the concept Of 〃・ 0 わ・ in the way that the French do. The Australian tradition is much more geared tO blends Of wine across diStriCt and regional boundaries. AUSTRALIA AND ー N 元 " ZEALAND Nets are particularly essential for vaneties that need longer npening, as Tasmama. 865
THE EMANCIPATION OF . AUSTRALIAN WINES Before VARIETAL wines established themselves and Australia's gr( ハ an individual path, attempts 、 vere made [ 0 sell 、 lmltating famous labels StICh as Chablis, Moselle, and even Lamb rtISCO. Australia S 、 VIne regions have established images ( ) 「 their 0 、 the number ofpremium 、 on ( ) 「に r iS rising sharply. This is very evident 佇 0n1 the range ( ) 「 W1nes available in AustraIian 、 V1ne stores. "The traditional market in the U. K. will not grow greatly, and our top-quality wmes will always suffer from the inborn, carefully perpet- uated, and slightly supercilious snobbery that eXISts there. '' A generation after wrltlng this fortuitously ill-fated pronouncement, the cele- brated author and winemaker Len Evans 1S no doubt as delighted as anyone to have been forced to eat (and drink) his own words. For Australia is the success story of the modern era, coming from II( ハ vhere tO become a significant player on the world stage. While the modern Australian wine industry is founded on a diversity of styles, broadly based on the classic styles of Europe, the legacy of a century-old industry has glven Australia a wealth Of original wine styles. These range from the toasty Semillons of the Hunter Valley, the big, bold reds made from Barossa Valley Shiraz, to the sticky fortified Muscats and Tokays of northeast Victoria. While many European countries have been busy uprootmg unwanted vines, Australia has planted them. Where European countries have been casting around for importers, Australia has embarked on an aggressive export plan for the ne 、 millennium. lt iS a success story based on the confident will to succeed, together with an aware- ness Of quality and appreciation Of consumer tastes, whether for aromatic or dry table wines, sparkling or fortified. Today, Australian wmeries number a thousand, from giant corporations like Southcorp and B. R. L. Hardy to dedicated one- man bands which are operated, as Often as not, by a dOCtor or la 、 a personal miSS1()n tO put his vinous stamp on the industry. 犬行な・猛川 Australia has gone through maJor changes smce the late 1950S , when the modern wme industry was born. ln that period, not much more than 98 400 tons (I()O,OOO tonnes) of basic grape varieties were crushed. Less than l() percent Of the tOtal harvest was Of premium varieties. By the mid-1980s, roughly 80 percent ()f Australian W1ne SOld in BAG IN A BOX or bulk with some five percent premium bottled wine. Since then, there has been a dramatic shift tO premium varietres, notably Chardonnay, Semillon, and Riesling among the white vane- ties, and Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon among the reds. By the eve of the millennium, the total crush amounted tO nearly one million tons, of WhiCh vaneties represented the share at well over 60 percent. ENERGY FROM THE SUN AND COOLINGTECHNOLOGY As Australian wine producers have adopted and adapted the styles of the producers they most admire, they have come to realize that they can produce W1nes in a style that is uniquely AustraIian and, as such, much in demand. What is that style? ln a nutshell, Australian wine is about intense fruitiness, abundance ()f flavor, and softness Of texture, molded by exceptional sun- shine and warmth. With fruit and flavor come cleanness Of taste and the less appreciated, but no less discernible, texture. Typically, Australian Wines have a lovely softness and rounded texture that makes them instantly accessible. These are not wrnes that have tO be laid down forever in dark, damp cellars. Their appeal is not their longevity but their drinkability. Technology ()n particular, refrigeration), and subsequently night-harvesting and care in handling the grape juice, have played a crucial role in the modern evolution of Australian wine. The modern industry is founded on co 旧 FERMENTATION, which enabled producers tO move away from fortified wines to lighter table wines. The necessity for this is brought home by the author Oliver . Mayo, who points out that While Europe grapes are gro 、 on the warm fringes Of a COld continent, in Australia they are grown on the cold margins Of a hOt contlnent. ' This means that, for the most part, Australia's viticultural regions are not in the hottest parts Of the country and, with 0 司 y a handful of excep- tions, are never far from the ocean. 858 INTRODUCTION
物を物、を電 PESTS The third great enemy of the vine is Bo 〃 ) 廰 , or gray rot, which can affect both the quantity The two types of grape berry moth, cochylis and the quality of the yield. lt is best combated ( E 〃々 0 市 4 4 川房 g “〃 4 ) and eudemis ( LO わお through the use Of preventative strategies that わ 0 4 〃 4 ) , are significant vine pests. They pro- promote the vitality Of the vine and ensure good ventilation in the canopy. ThiS necessitates duce tWO or three generatlons every summer, and their various larval stages damage the buds reducing the amount Of nitrogen added tO the the immature flowers, and the maturing grapes. soil, training the vines SO that they have adequate space, and undertaking work on the The chosen methods of control must be appro- priate for the particular stage 0f development canopy (removing the secondary ShOOts; thin- mng out the foliage) in good time. (eggs or larvae), and be deployed at the right time. The less harmful the products are tO the Organic substances used tO control fungal envrronment, vineyard- 、 vorkers, and beneficial diseases can be divided intO three categones: products that work on the contact principle, lnsects, the more precisely an optimal treatment date must be determined; in some cases, one or and thus only protect the organs t0 which they two days can make a great deal of difference. are applied (contact fungicides); products that penetrate the treated organs and stop the attack within the plant (locally systemic fungicides); and products that penetrate and spread throughout the vine (systemic fungicides). Spraying the vines with pesticide. Methods of treatment Treatment should be targeted specifically at the areas damaged by the pest or disease, such as the foliage ()s with mildew) or the grapes (e ・ g ・ grape berry moth). G00d cove- rage Of the affected parts is vital tO the success Of the treat- ment, as is the ChOice Of agent, time Of deployment, use Of the correct nozzle setting on the spraying equipment, and the speed at which the machinery is driven through the vineyard. lncorrect settings on the spraying equrpment and t00 much speed can lead tO unnecessary pollution Of the environment (such as increased drift). Eutypa dieback: cross-section through a trunk. IN THE VINEYARD 99
finally fermented. The shorter the maceration time, the less tannin is absorbed intO the wine. Temperature plays an important part in the fermentation process. The fruit Of a レ / 〃〃 OI れ℃ 4 〃 is better at around 68 。 F (200C), the structure of a じ川 at 86 。 F (300C). But as with almost every red wine, Beauj01ais 引 so undergoes a biological acid conversion, which reduces the Often high acid content and stabilizes the wine. TO AGE OR NOT TO A. GE—THAT IS SOMETIMES THE QUESTION Although the summers in Beaujolais are often 3 hot and dry, the must may 0 司 y be concentrated by a maxlmum of two degrees of alcohol. ln addition, the Gamay creates little natural sugar, and none at all if the yields are too high. A small number Of wine growers dispense with chaptal- ization. The particular charm Of Beaujolais lies lll 1tS intensrve, ent1C1ng aromas. They range from flowers, such as viOletS, roses, and lily Of the valley tO fruits such as cherries, raspberries, redcurrants, or blackberries. Although these aromas have their purest expressl()ll ln young W1nes, many Of the regl()n S 、 vines have sufficient structure tO be allowed tO age for a few years. Famous for their long-lasting potential are Morgon, Chénas and Moulin-å-Vent. Sur- prisingly, well-aged Beaujolais Crus often resemble Burgundies in taste and bouquet. 4 is traditional for the training method of GO わ The Juliénas brotherhood resides in the castle at the to be followed, in which the shape of the vine is 応 ofthe village. similar to that of a goblet. ln the Appellation Beat1J01ais, the Guyot method may 引 so be used; the Vine iS trained along a Wire frame; ()therwise each vine IS tied tO a stake. Pruning and VINIFI- CATION require hand-picking, which usually starts in mid-September and lasts for three weeks. THE SECRET OF THE FRUIT Beaujolais grapes must reach the cellar undam- aged and the wine growers use crates that hOld no more than 175 pounds ()0 (g) of grapes. This is a requirement for the full grape or carbon dioxide maceration customary ln Beaujolais. There are many variants, but the prmciple is always the same. The grapes are tipped intO tanks or wooden containers WhOle. The grapes lying on the bottom become parti- ally crushed, so that must collects around them that begins to ferment. Carbon dioxide is produced and this saturates the atmosphere. Starved of oxygen, the other grapes are forced tO use lntracellular fermentation, 、 VhiCh means that the must draws a particularly high level of aromas from the skins. Depending on the desired character of the wine, the must is drained Off after four to ten days, the residue pressed and, once the drained- off must and pressed must have been assembled Juliénas has become the embodiment ofthe Beaujolais-Cru. 214 BURGUNDY